Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 43

Thread: How to rebuild your FWD 5 Speed Manual Transmission... (Guide)

  1. #31
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    8/1/2010

    Location
    Fullerton CA!
    Posts
    130
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Well If he gives you your money back thats good. If all you did was seals then your gears should have never been touched. As a matter of fact, you can replace all but one seal with it still in the car. The input shaft is the only one you need to take apart to replace.

    1996 3000GT FWD TT
    Follow my build thread here
    http://www.socal3s.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=26259

    June 30 2012 BBQ/POOL PARTY!!! Sign up guys!!!
    http://www.socal3s.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26348

  2. #32
    The input seal was done along with the other 2. As I understand it requires a shop press to do the input seal. I do not have one and did not want to buy it for a one time use. Also, I was not comfortable with doing this disassembly myself so I hired this guy.

    I think I am best off trying to fix it myself at this point. Another mechanic will not know how it is supposed to go together because this guy messed up something.

    The ball bearings that hold the gears in place; do those have to be removed before the fork shafts are put in?

  3. #33
    Forum User Not Verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Posts
    737
    Thanks
    26
    Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts
    Did he simply fuck up which way the shift cables go on?

  4. #34
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    8/1/2010

    Location
    Fullerton CA!
    Posts
    130
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Well the cables being wrong wont be the mechanics fault since he didnt install the transmission.

    Yes the ball bearings are the last thing you put in before you put on the end cap.

  5. #35
    The cables slide on easily in the neutral position. But to just be sure I took them off and tested each position on the shift levers to see if I could find neutral anywhere; no such luck.

    The fault is internal.

  6. #36
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    8/1/2010

    Location
    Fullerton CA!
    Posts
    130
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Once you get the pins out you will need to turn the shafts in order to remove the gears the one on the left goes to the left and the two on the right go to the right. It's kind of tricky as you will need to move the gear selector around to do this.



    This is the step he may have failed...

  7. #37
    I opened mine up today but I can not get the smaller gear off that mates to 5th gear under the upper cover. I don't see how a gear puller can be used if this is pressed on.

    Did yours just lift out like 5th gear does?

  8. #38
    The one. The only. verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    August 28, 2002

    Location
    SWPA
    Posts
    4,042
    Thanks
    182
    Thanked 699 Times in 529 Posts
    That's exactly how it works. Use a gear puller and it comes right off.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  9. #39
    UPDATE

    I got it apart now. The oil guide fell out and I do not know how it goes back in. This is photo 1.

    With it opened up the selector is not catching the 1st and 2nd gear bank very well. The 3rd to 4th gear shift is very sloppy and you have to slam it into 4th to make it go. Since 5th and reverse are kind of disconnected I can't gauge them well. The selector does seem to catch okay on that bank though.

    I snapped a few photos to see if anyone can see something wrong that just stands out.

    I'll shoot a video Monday and post up the shift action.










  10. #40
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    8/1/2010

    Location
    Fullerton CA!
    Posts
    130
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Hey, first of all why do I see signs of rusting and corrosion? you might want to change out your bearings and your synchros dont look do good either. What type of oil are you using?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering