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Thread: a few questions about checking an engine - N/A or TT? Compression#s without flywheel

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    a few questions about checking an engine - N/A or TT? Compression#s without flywheel

    I have a shortblock was supposed to have been a 2 bolt VR4 engine. In trying to sell it, someone pointed out that the heads were N/A heads by the markings on them. Well, now I'm concerned about the shortblock being N/A as well. how can I tell the difference without tearing it apart? i will eventually, but I want to test Compression #s forst

    Which leads me to my next question. What is a good way to turn it over enough to get a good compression test? All I have is an N/A flywheel(smaller diameter from what I can see), and no N/A trans to mount the starter to. I tried using a breaker bar on the crank pulley, but just can't turn it over fast enough or long enough. Considered using my impact gun, but even with the plugs out of the cyinders, I was concerned about breaking or stripping something. Would be possible for a 1/2 air ratchet would work?

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    Here for the party Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) CoreyB's Avatar
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    The block will have oil squirters in it if its a TT.

    But you would have to pull the pan to see that.

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    I think you may be able to get away with bolting that plate (the one that sits between the engine and transmission) to the engine and bolting the starter to that. It would be better if you had multiple plates though and I would probably run a strap around the starter and engine to keep it from moving around while cranking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CoreyB View Post
    The block will have oil squirters in it if its a TT.

    But you would have to pull the pan to see that.
    thanks for the reply.

    I can probably pull the pan, just didn't want to pull the heads so i can get compression. Unfortunately, as many years as I've had these cars, never seen the squirters. What am I looking for? What do they look like?

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    Here for the party Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) CoreyB's Avatar
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    At the bottom of each cylinder there is a little bump out that the squirter is in. The oil is fed from the mains.

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    Cool. I'll try to check that out soon. Thanks a lot.

    Anyone have any thoughts on checking compression

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    Just look at the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts to it. If it has a dowel pin in it, then it's a vr4 engine... if there is no dowel pin in it, then it's a NA engine. Now, that's not a totally true way of telling since the engine could have been opened up and cranks could have been swapped.

    Looking down the spark plug holes, you could try to see if you can tell if "72T" is cast into the top of the pistons.

    If you pull the pan, it's extremely easy. The 2 bolt main girdle will have 4 stay brackets bolted to the main girdle to the block with some 14mm bolts. There will be 2 on each side of the girdle.

    There is also a VIN number stamped on the block by the rear head on the transmission side. Just run the VIN on the block (that is if it's a US Spec engine) and see if it comes from a TT

    As for comp numbers... that's going to be next to impossible without using a starter. You'll need to spin the engine at about 400 rpms to get decent numbers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    Pull a plug and shine a light down the hole. You'll be able to see the top of the piston if it's in the right place.
    You'll even be able to see if it's a dished or domed piston. Might even be a stock flat top too.

    Steve
    I kinda tried that, but couldn't see much. Possibly the light wasn't bright enough or direct enough. I may try again tonight

    Quote Originally Posted by Hans@GZP View Post
    Just look at the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts to it. If it has a dowel pin in it, then it's a vr4 engine... if there is no dowel pin in it, then it's a NA engine. Now, that's not a totally true way of telling since the engine could have been opened up and cranks could have been swapped.

    Looking down the spark plug holes, you could try to see if you can tell if "72T" is cast into the top of the pistons.

    If you pull the pan, it's extremely easy. The 2 bolt main girdle will have 4 stay brackets bolted to the main girdle to the block with some 14mm bolts. There will be 2 on each side of the girdle.

    There is also a VIN number stamped on the block by the rear head on the transmission side. Just run the VIN on the block (that is if it's a US Spec engine) and see if it comes from a TT

    As for comp numbers... that's going to be next to impossible without using a starter. You'll need to spin the engine at about 400 rpms to get decent numbers.
    I have the pic below of the engine. Looks like there is a hole for a dowel, but appears that the dowel is missing. Would the N/A crank have the hole for it?

    I'll stop by my garage tonight and take a closer look at the other things you listed. Thanks!


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    The only thing I could find was a stamp behind the front head. From what I could tell it looked like YH 7156

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    Quote Originally Posted by gs1000kat View Post
    The only thing I could find was a stamp behind the front head. From what I could tell it looked like YH 7156
    Anyone know what this might mean? If anything?

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