I'm done with hydraulic tensioners

[blindmist]

I think being solid is really the safer choice if you drive it a lot and do regular maintenance yourself. It's just one more thing to check once a month. Not only that, but once you have torn down the timing belt side with the engine in the car, it only takes about 30 minutes to tear down and about the same to reassemble.

[TonyM]

Something going on with new OEM tensioners? I replaced mine back in 2005 with an OEM unit and its seen 30k+ miles since without a problem.

[RL7]

I think the tensioners have oil and a spring inside. I haven't cracked one open yet to check though.


edit, courtesy of stealth316-
tim_09-07.jpg

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I don't know what it is, but there seem to be some people or cars with issues with the stock tensioner over and over, and some that never have a problem. I run mine about 9lbs on the manual tensioner instead of 7 just for extra safety.

[DrGonzo]

I don't know what it is, but there seem to be some people or cars with issues with the stock tensioner over and over, and some that never have a problem. I run mine about 9lbs on the manual tensioner instead of 7 just for extra safety.

Ahh good to know! I was just wondering what the stock tension was on the timing belt. I'm going to go solid here shortly and had no clue what the tension was supposed to be.

[CoreyB]

You are once again wrong. They have oil in them. This is held in by a seal at the end of the plunger when this seal blows the oil leaks out and the tensioner no longer works. The spring breaking is not the cause of the failure.

[DrGonzo]

The oil pisses out because one of the bolts holding it to the block goes into an oil passage. That's why the manual says to coat the bolt with sealer.
No they don't have oil in them, it's thick stuff similar to what's in the viscous diffs.
Obviously you haven't read the workshop manual.
The manual is quite handy, it even tells you how to test it etc. and squash the pin back in so you can reuse it.

Steve

Wait WHAT!!!!

That is not even close to being correct. The hydraulic tensioner is a self contained hydraulic piston, the internal spring forces the tension of the rod outward. the hydraulic pressure contained inside the piston is controlled by the orifice moving the fluid between the front and rear of the tensioner. They leak cause the seals are old and wear out. Even the new OEM ones are going out as they were most likly made 20 years ago and have been sitting on a shelf with all of the pressure pushing on the seals. The tensioners come shipped pre-compressed "You have to pull out a pin to un-compress it" all of that force eventually wears out the seals over time. Which is the reason I believe the OEM ones are having a higher fail rate these days.

[1stStealthN/A]

+1 People also over-tension the standard 7 to 9 lbs on the hydraulic tensioner thinking more is better. That will shorten the 60k service life as it's harder on the tensioner, idlers and waterpump.

[Hans@GZP]

I've NEVER had a tensioner go bad on me and I've done hundreds of timing belt jobs. I've used OEM ones and aftermarket ones and never had any issues.

They aren't usually very old when sold new either. The date of manufacture are usually stamped on the top of them.

[blindmist]

The oil pisses out because one of the bolts holding it to the block goes into an oil passage. That's why the manual says to coat the bolt with sealer.
No they don't have oil in them, it's thick stuff similar to what's in the viscous diffs.
Obviously you haven't read the workshop manual.
The manual is quite handy, it even tells you how to test it etc. and squash the pin back in so you can reuse it.

Steve

:facepalm to the end of eternity:


I am guessing your asshole is huge from all the shit you constantly pull out of it.