Saved From The Crusher - 93 Stealth TT Rebuild/Restore

[J_Parker]

Looks great man, very "mean" looking car

[Boomer3000]

Rattle can paint job FTW!!

It's all in the prep work. Both part went through my blasting cabinet with 120grit glass beads The I finish sanded then smooth with a 220grit. Wiped everything down with acetone and sprayed on a light first coat then sanded and repeat until I had a good 4-5 coats I used high temp low gloss black on both of them.

Almost all of the parts on the car went through the blasting cabinet for cleaning and some got painted after wards. If it was a small cheap part it most likely got replaced. Not to many things under the hood are going to be shiny. I'm looking for Stealth look not bling!

Damn... Will you do mine? I give you monies!!! lol

[CoopKill]

Man you are going all out!

Let me know what you think of the pedal. Been looking at them for a year, and not pulled the trigger.

[TooFast4Radar]

Update time!

So a couple weeks ago Jared "StealthLabel" was over to get some fuel work done. I pulled off my Blue fuel rail adapters to switch for his silver ones. Well right when I pulled off the timing belt cover the belt slipped!!! I am so thankfully that it happened with the car not running.

I ordered the Gates 60k kit from IPS and got it in about 4-5 days "Thanks IPS" The gates kit is all Gates parts but uses an OEM Mitsu Tensioner. I have used these kits for some time and I trust them completely and never had an issue with them before.



old water pump and the new Gates one



All installed:



3SX Stud kit installed for the fuel rails. These are great and I don't have to worry about loosing the black rail spacers!


Polished fuel rail installed along with fresh painted/shaved front valve cover:


Engine as it stands:

Everything looks good, however I tried a Gates pump on my R/TT and it seized on the highway after about 25k miles, causing the timing belt to literally melt and cut a hole in the timing belt cover around the path where the belt used to be. It looked better compared to the factory part, but I wouldn't use anything but OEM after that. Just a FYI....

[lawdogg]

Hey man love your progress. Looks awesome! Any more thoughts along the rims lines?

[n2nsanity]

looks good in person too
btw, i still want your old spark plug cover

[durtycheez]

This is an amazing rebuild thread. Thank you for posting it!

[BigTyla]

Impressive build. It looks like you're going with some ideas I'm having for my Talon, particularly the color. I've decided to go satin black on mine instead of flat for a slightly more glossy finish.

Where did you get your blasting cabinet? I was thinking of picking one up from Harbor Freight.

[DrGonzo]

Thanks...

Picked it up from HF. If you do get one make sure you go in and reseal all of the seals. They don't seal it very well and it creates a lot of dust. I had to empty mine and re-seal it.

[DrGonzo]

OK Well it's been long enough so I guess it's time for some updates.....

Car has been running great. I DD it 2-3 times a week if the weather holds out. I have been knocking out a lot of side projects that I have been wanting to get done. So here we go....

I got tired of seeing my Turbo timer attached to the main gauge cluster. Awhile back I saw a thread where shooter molded his timer into his main gauge cluster. So I decided to tackle the idea with nothing more than a picture of his final product. Well it took me a about a week to knock this out but I love the way it came out. The control button had to be removed from the Timer circuit board. The legs on the button where too short to successfully re-solder on new wires. So I found a new one online from Mouser.com and ordered two "One as a spare". I used CAT 5 cable as I needed to be able to disconnect it from the main gauge cluster. The control button is molded into the spot where the pop-up light switch used to be.





I also molded my SAFC2 into the center vent piece. The left side vent was broken so I molded a cup to house it from fiberglass and then molded the cup to the dash. it is really nice having a spare dash to mock everything up on. This way it I ruin the dash in any way it's no loss. I'll have top hunt down the pictures as I can't find them in my photo gallery right now.

This past weekend I tackled installing my FMIC, changing out my Oil Cooler Lines and replacing a squeaking pulley....

The FMIC is a CX racing kit. Granted I am only on 9b's I was still having issues with heat soak most likely due to the fact that the Pistons are still 10:1. I picked this kit up used and spent about a week in the shed polishing the pipes.Then I spent another two weeks awaiting parts as I wanted to have black couplers and all new SS t-bolt clamps. I ordered all couplers and clamps from siliconeintakes.com.

So I got the front bumper off and realized how tight the space was going to be. I use the front 99 tank as my Meth tank so I didn't want to loose it.


I used my dremel and cut out the opening in the front bumper. Found out how bad the rock chips were so I'm going to have to re-spray it this summer.


Remounted the bumper to mark the crash bar to be cut. I was originally only going to cut out the part marked but decided it would be too complicated with the tools I had..


I then started to install the upper hard pipes. I love the way these look with the black couplers......



Test fitting the front mount. I was able to save the 99 coolant tank. I just had to switch how it mounted from the underside to top mounted on the radiator support.


View of the new SS oil cooler lines. One of my lines had a really bad kink in it so they needed to be replaced for some time now. Had to get creative with the line routing in order to clear the Y-pipe. Oil cooler is not in the stock location. I had to move it down and back about an inch and drill/tap new holes.