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Thread: Open Air or Closed Loop BOV

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    Forum User supporter Feedback Score 1 (100%) Rocket's Avatar
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    Open Air or Closed Loop BOV

    Hey all!
    Tired of the moose under my hood big time! I am getting ready to do a partial tear down and rebuild. Short story, water pump pulley separated from the water pump causing a timing belt failure.

    In doing the tear down and rebuild (on a budget), I am looking at replacement of the moose sounding stock BOV. I wasn't sure whether to go with something that vented into open air or does it have to vent back into the air intake?

    Thanks
    Rocket

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    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 3 (100%) Unknownvr4's Avatar
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    It doesnt have to recirculate, you can have a open atmosphere one but when you shift it will run rich because its venting air that the MAF already thinks is in the system. For some people, this causes stalling but all they do is bump the throttle and that fixes the issue. If thats too big of a deal for you just get a recirculating one.

    I run a nice Tial 50mm BOV
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    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 7 (100%) mb3000's Avatar
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    ^What unknown said. Some people will argue that it should always recirculate, but the choice is up to you. If you want something loud than an open atmosphere is for you.

    I am running and open atmosphere bov with an arc2 and have no issues.

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    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 3 (100%) Unknownvr4's Avatar
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    Oh yea... the issue is only there on the stock MAF.. If your blow thru or anything else you should be fine...

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    I`ve been reading up on this recently and running rich between shfts can actually have the benifit of staving off knock.

    I bought my car with an open bov and it`s never stalled out on me..
    GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 rawavr4's Avatar
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    I recommend the Forge bov from DR. Its $160 brand new and works great. No diaphragms to blow out like some GReddys.

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    and a 95 too! Feedback Score 0 deemo99's Avatar
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    A Tomei bov fits with no mods also, doesn't draw any attention. Have not tried open with arc2, hrmmm....
    1995 3000GT VR-4, 1 of 6 identical
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    it's probably fair to say that I've seen more cranks than a lot of other people on here.

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    Forum User supporter Feedback Score 1 (100%) Rocket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeithMac View Post
    I`ve been reading up on this recently and running rich between shfts can actually have the benifit of staving off knock.

    I bought my car with an open bov and it`s never stalled out on me..
    I'd like to know how this would help stave off knock? The only time I ever see high knock count is under high boost. Going rich with the throttle off or during the closing of the throttle just after a big boost isn't one of those times I ever saw any knock. I am not discounting what you have said, but I would like to see some more information about it.

    I have been looking at some of the HKS models right now. Will check out some of the ones listed and see what they are about. I may look at something that I can open air or modify closed/recirc. If things don't go well open air I can then always go back to closed system. I have the original MAF in place and I am not running any fuel management other than the stock ECU.

    We'll see what else the thread sparks in conversation. I am interested in hearing some in depth on this

    Rocket

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    There will be Blood! verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) CoopKill's Avatar
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    Any time your running rich or lean it's not beneficial to long term health. Running rich leaves deposits throughout the system and fouls plugs prematurely.

    My choice is to remain closed loop. Besides, the car attracts enough attention without the f and f whistle. Just wave out the window as you pass.



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    If you drive the car hard between shifts (track work or 1/4 mileing), the extra fuel helps cool the chambers and also prevents lean tip-in. If you just do a pull then coast down it will have no benifit. Quite a few race cars are mapped to run rich on overrun to improve the reliability under extreem driving conditions.

    You will never see knock throttling down, but cutting fuel can set up conditions to knock in the next pull if it`s done instantaniously.

    Normal road driving wouldn`t benifit much as you say.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket View Post
    I'd like to know how this would help stave off knock? The only time I ever see high knock count is under high boost. Going rich with the throttle off or during the closing of the throttle just after a big boost isn't one of those times I ever saw any knock. I am not discounting what you have said, but I would like to see some more information about it.

    I have been looking at some of the HKS models right now. Will check out some of the ones listed and see what they are about. I may look at something that I can open air or modify closed/recirc. If things don't go well open air I can then always go back to closed system. I have the original MAF in place and I am not running any fuel management other than the stock ECU.

    We'll see what else the thread sparks in conversation. I am interested in hearing some in depth on this

    Rocket

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