New ECU, IAC, Coil pack, Fuel Pump, CAS still no start

[Steve '92ES]

There are three spots on here that say DC!

You want the red one that says DCV

So I put the + lead on the red wire as close to the connextor as possible. and did the same with the - on the black wire. 11.86.

That sounds good. How did you get into the wire? Did you push a pin through the insulation?

[3kgt1734]

You want the red one that says DCV


That sounds good. How did you get into the wire? Did you push a pin through the insulation?

That's why I'm confused. I don't understand how I'm supposed to test it without the connector open, I'm not about to go stabbing through wires. lol.

[Steve '92ES]

Ahhh. Now I understand.
You're not the first one stumped by this. It's kind of a head thumper. The sensors have to be hooked up to test them but you can't get to the wires once they're plugged in.
The popular method seems to be poking needles into the wire. Many people do it and it does seem to be the time honored way. I hate doing it. Maybe it's because I started out as an electrician where insulation is a little more life and death but it just feels wrong.
Here's what I did when I needed to test my sensors. I soldered a couple small gage wires (22 gage or so) to the back of the connector pins on the ECU. That way I could connect everything back up and ran the wires out to where I could use them. In fact they're still there, I just insulated them real well to keep them out of trouble and tucked them in behind the ECU.
I used 3 wires, one for the Crank sensor, one for the Cam sensor, and one for the signal ground.
Your '95 has a different pinout than mine so I can't give you the pin numbers off the top of my head. If you can't find them on that link to the ECU pinouts let me know.

[3kgt1734]

Ahhh. Now I understand.
You're not the first one stumped by this. It's kind of a head thumper. The sensors have to be hooked up to test them but you can't get to the wires once they're plugged in.
The popular method seems to be poking needles into the wire. Many people do it and it does seem to be the time honored way. I hate doing it. Maybe it's because I started out as an electrician where insulation is a little more life and death but it just feels wrong.
Here's what I did when I needed to test my sensors. I soldered a couple small gage wires (22 gage or so) to the back of the connector pins on the ECU. That way I could connect everything back up and ran the wires out to where I could use them. In fact they're still there, I just insulated them real well to keep them out of trouble and tucked them in behind the ECU.
I used 3 wires, one for the Crank sensor, one for the Cam sensor, and one for the signal ground.
Your '95 has a different pinout than mine so I can't give you the pin numbers off the top of my head. If you can't find them on that link to the ECU pinouts let me know.

Camshaft sensor is 68 and crankshaft sensor is 69. I'm going to do the test tomorrow. For real this time hahahaha

I was reading old posts about having no spark. Could it have something to do with the PTU? Should I test it or would it be a waste of time?

[Steve '92ES]

That would be the next thing I'd check if the sensor signals are OK. If you want to check it first that'd be OK.
(You'll need the Ohms scale on the meter for that. It's the while symbol just under the green ACV)

[Steve '92ES]

Camshaft sensor is 68 and crankshaft sensor is 69.

It looks like you DO have the same pinout as me. You'll also want a wire on either pin 13 or 26 for ground. When you test you'll connect the meter (-) to this ground and the meter (+) to one of the other two. Crank the engine and you should see the voltage jump up and down on the meter. Your meter may or may not be fast enough to display a stable reading but it should at least be moving.
When done connect the meter (+) to the other signal wire and repeat.


Another thing that's a bit confusing is how they note the voltage on that chart (and in the manual).
It says the voltage should be 0.2-3.0v The way that should be interpreted is:
A low of no more than .2v pulsing to a high of at least 3.0v (nominal 5v logic signal)
I wouldn't obsess over those values but you should be close (assuming you get a stable reading).


Oh, and make sure you keep an eye on those wires. Ya don't want them wandering off and shorting out to anything, or each other...

[3kgt1734]

So the ECU, PTU, coil pack, MFI(even though it clicks like crazy), IAC, ECU, Fuel Pump, are good.

So the only things left that control spark are the Camshaft and crankshaft angle sensors, correct? They both have power.

When I was replacing the CAS is it possible that the trigger wheel was somehow thrown out of line? Even though I never took the wheel off? When I took the crank pulley off the wheel was positioned so that I could not get the CAS out. So I put the crank pulley back on and turned the engine by hand to turn the rigger wheel to a point in whcih I would be able to get tha cas out. I read that doing that could somehow throw the wheel out of line?

[Steve '92ES]

Don't cross the ECU off just yet, we've proven that it's not dead but we haven't proven it works yet either. Especially with the MFI clocking like that..
At this point you need to test the sensors, either with the pin-through-the-insulation method or by soldering wires to the ECU.

[3kgt1734]

Grrrr. Alright. I'll test them asap