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Thread: Maybe jumped time?

  1. #1

    Question Maybe jumped time?

    I think my car may have jumped time. Could someone look at these videos and give me your opinions? It still cranks but I think it may be ready to go. May have slipped a tooth or something



    Last edited by kjzstealth; 12-21-2010 at 07:10 PM.
    Stealth funded by the US Army

  2. #2
    XLR8TOR
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    First thing I would do here is shut it off. Almost sounds like you might have some valves just barely touching some pistons. Do the following first.

    Remove the two covers over the timing gears [4 bolts, don’t drop them].

    MaxNote: Check to see if you or anyone else may have installed adjustable cam gears in the past. If so, make sure one of them has not come loose and retarded one of the cams. If so loosen all the bolts on that gear and turn it so that the single mark aligns up with the middle mark on the +/- indexing lines.

    Try to rotate the engine [clock-wise] until the timing marks for the front timing gear align with the two arrow pointers on the front valve cover.

    The front [exhaust] timing gear “dot” should be about at the two o’clock position and the gear immediately to the right [front intake] should have its dot at about the 10 o’clock position. You will see them when they get close.

    You may or may not be able to get a breaker bar and a 22mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. If so you can use that to turn the engine.

    Line up the front gear dot first then check to see if the intake gear next to it lines up.

    If both of them line up do not turn the engine and inspect the positions of the gears on the rear head.

    If the rear dots are also aligned up when the front ones are then the cams are in sync with each other but it is still possible that the belt could still be out of sync with the crank gear.

    You will have to release the tensioner pulley to remove the belt to get the crank pulley off to verify its position. To loosen the pulley first loosen the bolt in the center of the pulley a few turns but do not remove it, then you can back off the tension with the long vertical just to the front of it by backing it off with the bolt head at the top so you can remove the generator/AC belt.

    You may find it next to impossible to loosen the crank pulley bolt as these are on tighter than tight. Once you slide off the pulley you can see the timing alignment mark on the crank timing belt gear. It has a half circular notch at one place on the back flange of the gear and it should line up with a pointer flange on the oil pump housing at about roughly the one o’clock position.

    IF the timing gears are properly positioned BUT the notch on the crank gear is not then something has slipped and I would not run the engine at all until you get everything back in sync.

    Re-syncing everything will require you removing the front cover from the engine. Loosening the tensioner pulley to remove the belt. This will also require you to remove the tensioner and reset it by placing it in a vise and slowly compressing it in enough so that you can get a pin back through it to hold it compressed. I find a small drill bit [non sharp end] inserted can hold it nicely.

    MaxNote: If you do not know when the last 60K maintenance was done on the car now would be the time to do that since you would already be in there with full access to all the parts you will need.

    Timing belt
    Tensioner pulley
    Tensioner
    Maybe new idler [ if noisy] on the rear side of the belt.

    Maybe a new water pump while your in there for peace of mind.

    Hope this helps out. Let us know what you find out about the timing gear marks.

  3. #3
    Well I have all the stuff to do the 60k maintenance, but just haven't gotten to it, so I guess I may as well go ahead and do it?

  4. #4
    XLR8TOR
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    Like I said in the previous link. Don't drive it that way. I had mine jump time because an Generator/AC belt came unraveled, wrapped around inside the crank pulley causing the timing belt to slip and instantly bent 24 valves.

    Also, while your in there make sure you replace the Generator/AC belt and the Power Steering belt. They are a lot cheaper than valves, trust me on that one.

  5. #5
    LOL.. Yeah, I have bent valves on a DSM but I thought maybe this one had not gone that far yet. I am going to have it towed to my shop Thursday, so maybe it will be back running by the end of the weekend... I will not put old belts on any of it.. when I take it apart its going back new

  6. #6
    XLR8TOR
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    A simple compression test here will tell you if you have bent valves.

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