Re-visiting Oils

[BaadVR4]

Almost the entire difference in lubricants is in the additive package and how the package is blended into the base stock. Most base stocks alone are inadequate for most purposes. The advantage synthetics have is the base stock is built by a chemical process, resulting in molecules which are, for all intents and purposes, identical clones. This gives the synthetic tremendous advantages over "Dino" oils in a lot of physical properties, mostly relating to stability and molecular breakdown. There are a host of "Full Synthetic" lubricants on the market. The vast majority of them are actually blends of synthetic and standard oil. The amount of dino oil allowed to still call the oil "full synthetic" varies with jurisdiction. Used according to manufacturer's direction and changed periodically, virtually all lubricants will provide acceptable service.

The additive most in question is Zinc. Diesel and racing oils historically contain high amounts of Zinc to provide extra protection against bearing failure from bearing "pound out". That's why these oils are popular in very high horsepower engines. That said, the formulation and additive packages of even the "full synthetic" oils varies.

Personally, I have a little over 40 years using every type and brand of lubricant under the sun. I used them in drag race only cars, ultra high horsepower street cars, family cars, tow vehicles and trucks. My thoughts/opinions/experiences: Synthetics out perform non synthetics, except for initial engine break in. Most synthetics are VERY similar in results. Some synthetics (Royal Purple and Castrol in particular) show greater use (burning) than others. My best experience has been with AMSOIL products, both on the dyno and on the track/street.

Just my 1.5 cents worth.

[MR2]

I'd put that at about 3c worth Thanks dude

[MR2]

ok, the flush engine oil and all other oils are in...the new rear LSD oil seems heaps better interestingly....since you guys were bitching and winging about a a semi-synthetic vs synthetic, I got a cheap synthetic...it's 5w40 or something...was only $50

Edit:
It's Penrite Everyday Full Synthetic 10w-40

[ZeroAU]

For what its worth Mike, these fellas operate pretty close to where we live and are fairly cheap- http://www.gllubricants.com/

[MR2]

Appreciate the info Zero, their cheapest engine oil seems to be around $100 for 5L?

[ZeroAU]

About $50-5L for most of the fully synthetic Mobil and Shell stuff, the Redline is about 85 a gallon or so, which is a bit rich.
Not really been a fan of Mobil stuff, the Shell is ok-ish.

Most of their gear oils are at a good price though.

[MR2]

yeah not to shabby! will keep it in mind when I have my million dollar engine

[ZeroAU]

Reckon about a million would cover all the dozens of little and not so little things that need fixing... or just annoy me

[mcshooter]

cant remember for sure but i got rotella 5-40 syn 4 quarts for about $20 at autozone, dont know if its available for you

[IPD]

Almost the entire difference in lubricants is in the additive package and how the package is blended into the base stock. Most base stocks alone are inadequate for most purposes. The advantage synthetics have is the base stock is built by a chemical process, resulting in molecules which are, for all intents and purposes, identical clones. This gives the synthetic tremendous advantages over "Dino" oils in a lot of physical properties, mostly relating to stability and molecular breakdown. There are a host of "Full Synthetic" lubricants on the market. The vast majority of them are actually blends of synthetic and standard oil. The amount of dino oil allowed to still call the oil "full synthetic" varies with jurisdiction. Used according to manufacturer's direction and changed periodically, virtually all lubricants will provide acceptable service.

The additive most in question is Zinc. Diesel and racing oils historically contain high amounts of Zinc to provide extra protection against bearing failure from bearing "pound out". That's why these oils are popular in very high horsepower engines. That said, the formulation and additive packages of even the "full synthetic" oils varies.

Personally, I have a little over 40 years using every type and brand of lubricant under the sun. I used them in drag race only cars, ultra high horsepower street cars, family cars, tow vehicles and trucks. My thoughts/opinions/experiences: Synthetics out perform non synthetics, except for initial engine break in. Most synthetics are VERY similar in results. Some synthetics (Royal Purple and Castrol in particular) show greater use (burning) than others. My best experience has been with AMSOIL products, both on the dyno and on the track/street.

Just my 1.5 cents worth.

a LOT of truth here....although to be fair, milt IS an amsoil vendor.

cant remember for sure but i got rotella 5-40 syn 4 quarts for about $20 at autozone, dont know if its available for you

this. for the price, i don't really know of a better "full synthetic" on the market. i've been running this stuff in my car for over a year now. granted, i'm not beating the crap out of it on a race-course (and if i was, i'd probably be running a sponsor's oil, not my own). for dd'ing, almost anything will work, provided there's the right amount of it and it's not overdue for a change.

i've yet to see a negative sample returned about rotella-t full synthetic.