rattle location

[alg8er]

'93 VR-4 stock drivetrain, as far as I know, with 105,000 mi. I have a rattle that's audible only in neutral. As soon as I press the clutch pedal to the floor, the rattle disappears. I assumed that it would be the throw out bearing. My mechanic put the car on the lift, and says it sounds like it's coming from the tranny. If it is the tranny, what could cause a rattle? The car runs fine, and pulls strong in every gear.

[Valhallaz]

The throwout bearing is in the transmission bell housing. That would be my guess also.

[Austin@STM]

Usually the throw out bearing. Epescially if its still the stock clutch.

[DocWalt]

It's not likely the TOB, more likely just the trans rattling. Common Getrag problem.

[Hans@GZP]

They rattle a lot. Could be the TOB, or the input shaft bearing. Those are the 2 most common reasons for a trans rattle.

[alg8er]

It's not likely the TOB, more likely just the trans rattling. Common Getrag problem.

LOL! Just the trans rattling. Well that puts my mind at ease! :-D

[alg8er]

Thanks guys! My mechanic was worried he wouldn't be able to tell what was rattling once he pulled the tranny/clutch, if it wasn't the TOB. I planned on a new clutch anyway, but I'll have him look closely at the input bearing. So what's a good street clutch for a stock motored VR-4 these days?

[DocWalt]

f the TOB was bad, it would make noise when you pressed the clutch in. If it rattles when the clutch is out... oh well. The input shaft bearing is a good thing to inspect when it's apart, for sure. If you decide to replace it, definitely get an OEM one if you can. The knock offs suck, and fall apart.

I'd go with an RPS Max with the Street disc, feels similar to stock because of the full face organic disc, but has the grip to hold a good amount of power.

[Austin@STM]

TOB can rattle when not pressed in because there is no pressure on it so it just floats around on the shift fork. My clutch, tob, pivot ball, and fork were all new this year and still got some good rattles sometimes if the clutch pedal wasnt down.

[alg8er]

I really hate those "lets tear it down and see what's wrong" scenarios. Any other tests I can do to narrow it down while the car is running? Now I'm wondering if it's input shaft bearing and/or tob, do I even need a clutch? With 105k, if I pay for the teardown anyway, is it stupid not to replace the clutch no matter what?