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Thread: rattle location

  1. #21
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    The clutch springs rattling was likely just a coincidence. I'd replace the seal and buy an OEM clutch disc and call it a day. Make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced if you do that, and they have to get the flywheel step right. The proper two step height is: .827" +-.002
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  2. #22
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    The resurfacing is key. Just had two done locally by a machine shop. 43 dollars. Dropped it off in the morning and picked it up in the afternoon. 20 year old flywheels with a fresh cut ftw lol.

  3. #23
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    flywheel resurfaced, Exedy OEM clutch, and new tranny seals. Car drives smooth again, no noises, but the clutch pedal has hardly any resistance at all. I'm wondering if the old clutch was a stage one. I haven't pushed it yet, still breaking in, but it seems to hold well. Pedal play, and grab point are correct, just feels light compared to last clutch.

  4. #24
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    The old clutch may have had a different fulcrum point in the pressure plate or something that caused it to be heavier. Obviously not a stock clutch if it was super stiff.

    Sounds like you've got the problem licked.

  5. #25
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    Doc; It wasn't real stiff, but the new clutch is very light. Lighter than every clutch in every manual car I've ever owned, and they were all stock clutches. A 12 year old girl could use this clutch. Just hard to get used to.

  6. #26
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    We have clutch boosters (like a brake booster) on the clutch which makes them lighter feeling than they are. That could cause it to feel really light. It's been a year or so since I drove a buddy's VR4 with a stock clutch, so I can't remember how it felt.

  7. #27
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    I pushed it hard today, and no slip at all. I guess this clutch will be fine. Thanks for the help everyone! Doc, I've never driven a VR4 with a stock clutch (apparently), so I have no comparison. I forgot about the booster.

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