rattle location

[DocWalt]

Austin, if the TOB rattles only when the clutch is out, it doesn't matter, like you said. You're certainly not worried about it rattling, are you?

If you're tearing it apart, it's stupid to not replace the clutch, IMO.

[alg8er]

Doc; "If you're tearing it apart, it's stupid to not replace the clutch"
Worse yet, I'm PAYING to tear it apart. Just looking for a cheaper way out. Wrong vehicle for that! The RPS clutch is way too much $$$ for me. Sorry, I should have stated my budget. I don't want to go too cheap, so how about a midrange, like under $500 for the whole kit?

[alg8er]

do you have to open the tranny to inspect / replace the input shaft bearing?

[DocWalt]

I don't really have an answer for either of those questions. If you're not gonna go around launching your car, a stock clutch would be fine. I don't know about the input shaft bearing, if the trans needs opened or not.

[Hans@GZP]

If you are keeping it under 450 hp, I'd stay with a stock clutch setup. They should run around $300 from Cherry Hill Mitsubishi. If you are looking for an upgraded clutch, I can get you a good deal on a South Bend Clutch for sub $500

[alg8er]

Not planning on 1/4 mile launches or modding, so stock clutch it is. Thanks tons for all the help guys!

[alg8er]

TOB was fine. Clutch springs were very loose and rattling. Also the input shaft seal on the tranny was leaking slightly, coating the clutch with a thin film of oil. So.....in order to change the seal, the tranny has to be opened. I might as well replace the input shaft bearing, and the 1,2, and 3rd gear synchros while I'm at it. So much for a cheap job.

[MaxClass]

What type of Transmission fluid were you using because I don't want to use the same stuff if I can help it?

Could the internal problem be due to low fluids?

[alg8er]

Maxclass; sorry it took me so long. I'm not sure if there's internal damage. The seal hasn't been pulled yet, so I'm not sure if it's a failed seal, or just fluid leaking past. The leak is very minor, hardly any oil gone. When I bought the car about 50k ago, the 2nd and 3rd synchros weren't perfect, and it was my daily driver, so I had to put in thinner oil for occasional (no salt) winter driving. With the new clutch and synchros I'll be going back to spec oil.

[alg8er]

the inside of my tranny is perfect. Looked like it was brand new. Synchros look brand new, and all teeth, gears, and other seals are like new. Clutch plates looked like new, besides the oil coating. Was it a coincidence that the clutch springs started rattling just before the seal started leaking? I lived with a light rattling for about 6 months, before it started getting worse. Then about a week later the clutch started slipping under hard acceleration after an hour or so of driving. I'm baffled, and broke.