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Thread: Tips for install

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    I Kill Threads verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Goallie11's Avatar
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    Tips for install

    I just got some DR650's and plan on installing them tomorrow. I'm also going to put 550's in and a walbro, as well as hook up an emanage blue.

    Does anyone have any tips for doing all of this? I'm gonna use the guides on stealth316 but any further knowledge would be good.
    1992 3000GT VR-4
    DR650s,Denso 550 injectors, Walbro 255, Emanage Blue,3SX Cat Eliminator Downpipe,Short Shifter,DNP Hardpipe Kit,HKS SSQV,Underdrive pulley,Carbotech slotted rotors,RPS Lightweight Flywheel, Maximal Solid Mounts

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    Member verified Feedback Score 0 DocWalt's Avatar
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    Use brand new bolts and anti-seize on the turbo bolts. Personally, I'd budget two days on all of that, just because of the tedious work involved, and the possibility of having to remove seized in stuff. Turbos should be doable in 6-8 hours assuming it all goes well, 550's should be doable in about an hour and a half, and the Walbro shouldn't take too long either, assuming the tank studs don't need rebuilt. If the emanage is all ready to plug right in, that's cake.
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    I Kill Threads verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Goallie11's Avatar
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    I think the emanage is ready to go, I'll have to go over the wiring thats already in it and check beforehand, I'm scared of cutting the wrong things for that though.

    On stealth316 he says the injectors take about 4-6 hours and I'm not finding a turbo guide, but that seems pretty straightforward. I can take as long as I need now that I'm done with classes for the semester, so time won't be an issue. Good idea on the anti seize, I hope the stuff isn't already seized up, but thats what air guns are for

    I've already had my downpipe off for a while now so that'll cut down the time a bit. Any other tidbits from anyone?

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    Player Hater of the Year Feedback Score 0 Turbo Beast's Avatar
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    Just like usual, dont drop stuff in the lower intake when removing the upper. Take your time on the rest, do it right the first time!

    (Off topic to Steven below me: Steven! What up!?!)
    Last edited by Turbo Beast; 12-14-2010 at 11:04 PM.

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    DR-750 club Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) FeaRpb's Avatar
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    Colin!!!!!!!!!!!

    Sorry, I had nothing to add to this thread, just wanted to say hi.
    July 2014 COTM
    We follow the earth. The earth follows the stars. The stars know their way and though the body dies. The stars will remain, like the waves of the sea and restless slate.

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    Member verified Feedback Score 0 DocWalt's Avatar
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    Dude, 4-6 hours for the injectors if you're taking a break constantly, lol. Having it all off at once makes it super easy to just do everything at once. The turbos have a few specific tricks, like the rear pre-cat heatshield needs rotated to the right, and pulled up really f'ing hard. Air tools may not help with the bolts, that's what I was using the second time, and the threads on the bolt cammed in and refused to pull out, so I had to drill it out. Twice.

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    I Kill Threads verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Goallie11's Avatar
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    Ooh that sucks doc. I figure that estimate for the injectors was a lot longer then it really takes, and I may be wrong but I dont think I have a rear heat shield to worry about.

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    Member verified Feedback Score 0 DocWalt's Avatar
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    If you don't have one, that makes the rear turbo job SUPER easy. Probably one of the easiest "big" jobs I've ever done. Everyone was bitching about the rear being so difficult. The only hard part was the heatshields.

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    and a 95 too! Feedback Score 0 deemo99's Avatar
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    New gaskets for TB, Lower Intake etc unless they are really new. Re the fuel pump, get your PB Blaster or equiv on there ahead of time. I now have 5 of 6 studs on the tank with no issues, but I know it's that way and that's enough to drive me nuts Rear heatshields should be the biggest PITA depending on fastener condition. I like to pull the radiator to do the front turbo, just way more room and no accidental holes in the radiator, but that's just me. Not sure if DR650's are the same, but I had to grind down the front motor mount a little for the 16t's to fit.
    1995 3000GT VR-4, 1 of 6 identical
    DR-16Ts, ARC2, 550s, supra pump, GReddy FMIC, Tomei BOV, RPS max full face, 3SX fuel rail loop, AEM wideband boost & oil pressure in stock location, Stillen DP, gutted rear pre-cat, Tanabe Touring Medallion catback, HHH datalogger, active aero sim w/3SX splitter, vac redux, Tein S KYB GR-2, Maximal control arms, 3SX poly bushings, ss brake lines, IPS rotors carbotech pads, ABS delete HKS EVC 6, HKS DLI, Maximal powder coat, 5hp chrome twin turbo plate, BSLCDBC

    1999 3000GT VR-4, 1 of 65 identical
    Jack-stand mod for now.

    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    it's probably fair to say that I've seen more cranks than a lot of other people on here.

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    Padawan garage troll Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Roybatty's Avatar
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    Recently installed Walbro, hardest part was breaking loose the line from under the fuel tank that connects hard line to filter to hard line on pump assembly. Had to use a crescent wrench to get enough torque, while holding the stationary part (hard lines) with flared wrench.

    If you ever changed your plugs, doing the injectors is like 30 minutes more if you are in a rush.
    91 AWD TT
    K&N FIPK, Precats gutted, Test Pipe, Blitz DSBC, Walbro 255, Vacuum reduction, SM3, MMCd, Krank Vents, 3SX Aluminum Crank Pulley, Aluminum 2PC DS, MAFT Pro (AFC mode atm).

    To do list: Need to check electronic timing, install FP hotwire, install PS poly MM, RUACAs, Setrab oil cooler, Dejon Y-pipe, 3.5 GM Mas, FIC 650ccs & 13Ts.

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