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Thread: TT Mivec Build

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    TT Mivec Build

    This is my thread I'm migrating from 3si. The project itself has been done for about 6 months, the car is still a work in progress though. It's pretty damn fast, pretty loud (not overly annoying though), has a great stereo, and is pretty fun to drive (especially considering it's also ATX and FWD). I got the Mivec changing over at 3k rpms and it's actually really smooth. The biggest thing you notice when it changes over is how much louder the exhaust is. I really want to get the car to a dyno and a track so I can see what kind of numbers it can put up. Here's the current state:




    Now to start copying and pasting the progression.

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    08-28-2008, 03:53 AM

    Update 1/08/10: Engine installed. Started an ran 12/22/09 (vid on top of page 20). "Mivec controller" (rpm switch) installed. Seems to work. Just working on small bugs: noisy starter, leaky banjos, vacuum leak/high idle. Should be rolling soon.


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Well I'm taking this kinda slow, but it should be fun. Putting a 6g72 mivec from a diamante 30m (sold in japan only) into a stealth and adding a couple turbos. Right now I'm trying to figure out what to do with the valve covers and oil pump (whether the curent location will interfere with the axle or if a 3s oil pump can fit). And to add to the chaos, it's going to be an auto (shift kit, end clutch, and trans cooler installed). Well, this is going to be something....









    Last edited by RL7; 01-08-2010 at 03:09 PM. Reason: update

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    08-28-2008, 02:03 PM

    MichaelMR2- I do have many manuals, including a very nice 6g7 series manual from 2001. The only problem is this engine is not referenced anywhere! I'm not even sure a service manual exists for this particular car. I've almost learned japanese trying to track one down. No holes in the engine that aren't supposed to be there... I think

    Ondontii- I'm controlling the mivec with an rpm activated switch. It's controlled by 12v solenoids, give them power, profile changes. Suprisingly simple stuff.

    GOTRICE- You're right engine is on the opposite side. That is where most of the the trouble spots are. NA manifolds bolt up fine (the manifolds and most of the other stuff bolted to the engine in the last pic is from the stealth), so the turbo manis shouldn't be a problem. Almost everything has bolted up without much trouble. Had to tap a couple holes and grind the motor mount bracket to clear that water pump, but nothing too serious yet. Can't know if it's more hassle than it's worth until you do it, so I'm doing it. I do anticipate tuning being a bitch, but you never know.

    I think next I'm going to drop the pan and see if a 3s oil pump will bolt up. Worst case scenario, I'll have to use the stealth block with these heads. I'm trying to stay away from doing that, but it really may be the easiest option. At least once I pull the pan, I can see if it's a 2-bolt or 4-bolt.
    Last edited by RL7; 08-28-2008 at 02:19 PM. Reason: changed pic reference

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    08-29-2008, 04:53 PM

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by GOTRICE View Post
    That is good news, sounds like you're going to make this happen.

    So on this line of thinking what gbox are you using and how are you mounting it? (ie engine on your drivers side or altering mounts and engine passenger side?)

    How are you tuning it?


    Just using the stock auto gearbox for now. All 3 motor mount brackets bolted into the correct location, so mounting the engine in the normal driver side position shouldn't be too tough. Haven't even thought about tuning yet. First step will be to see how poorly it runs with the stock ecu and tt injectors.

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 91vr4n00maxima View Post
    3s oil pump wont work. youll have to work around the location of that oil filter somehow.


    Looks like you're probably right.



    Those don't look to similar. The well used one is out of my 91 stealth. Are 2g 3s oil passages in different locations? This block was made in 95, so it would probably be closer to a 2g block. If left alone, would that oil filter interfere with anything (axle, power steering pump)?

    Turns out that this is a 2-bolt main. That is pretty weird, considering the heads (see below) are beefed up with extra bolts and the car was rated around 280hp.



    It's becoming more and more tempting to use a 6g74 block...

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    08-29-2008, 06:27 PM

    I was looking for an oil filter relocation kit. Haven't found one yet. I think threads are 12mm x 1.5 and od is about 3". Anyone have a part number or supplier?

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    09-12-2008, 03:53 AM

    Turbo time



    Going to have to hack up that front bracket a little.



    Man, these turbos look tiny. I've got a stock 300zx turbo sitting on top there for comparison. It is a lot heavier, so the garrett ones may just use more material than the mitsu ones. Front manifold steel and the rear iron? Odd.

    Here are the two intake manifolds


    That's a pretty significant increase in height. Should be fun attempting to shut the hood.

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    09-12-2008, 01:52 PM

    Originally Posted by lawdogg View Post
    Great stuff man. What did you end up doing about the oil pump?


    Nothing yet. I'm probably going to use the one that came with the engine and relocate the oil filter somewhere. I'm waiting until get the oil cooler, because I may relocate the filter using the cooler somehow.

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MustGoFaster View Post
    The only extra bolts I see are on the cam caps. These do nothing to add strenght, they are there so they can make oil passages and stuff to run the MIVEC.


    Yeah, that was just a quick impression I got by glancing at it. I didn't really think about it too much, just noticed that it was different. I guess there isn't too much force exerted upward on the cams, so the additional bolts probably don't make any real difference. I wouldn't necessairly say that they don't add any strength though, just doesn't add any purposeful strength. I still think it's weird that a 6g72 manufactured in 1995 making that much NA power was a 2 bolt main. I may have to look closer at the bottom end to see if it is different from ours.

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    09-12-2008, 05:35 PM

    I believe drivability and economy suffer in low rpms with a more aggressive cam. Variable cam profiles attempt to give you more power when you need it.

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    09-12-2008, 09:04 PM

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 92EuroDiamante View Post
    OH definitely fuel economy is terrible in the low rpm range with an aggressive cam, just didnt think it would matter too much if he is trying to build a performance care. but driveability? what did you mean by that, im interested to learn more.

    I assume it means that the engine won't feel as smooth, like it's not really comfortable in that rpm range. I've never swapped cams, so i wouldn't really know firsthand. I just have a basic understanding of this, there are probably other threads with more detailed info. Here's one with some info: MIVEC Heads

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    09-13-2008, 02:38 AM

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Apache View Post
    Would those heads fit on a regular 4-Bolt 3/S block?

    And why use the intake manifold that came with that block and not the 3/S one? Won't have any clearance issues using the one our cars come with.


    Heads should fit a regular 3s block. I was initially going to use the stealth manifold, but after a second look, i don't think that there was any chance of it clearing. I'm going to use the back half of the stealth manifold and the front half of the other.

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