Step by Step Transmission removal

[MightyMouse]

Well, here's the info I posted on 3si..
Tools Required
Ratchet, Breaker Bar, Cold Steal Chisel, Pickle fork, Rubber Mallet, Sockets and Wrenches (14mm, 17mm, 12mm, 19mm and 10mm), Pro-Lift shop jack and 2-4 Jack Stands, Rags, Latex gloves, Empty Oil Pan, Dirty Clothes, Phillips head Screwdriver, Socket Extensions (many sizes helps), Socket Elbow, and a few other things that aren't coming to mind. Nothing special though..

Transmission Removal Step by Step.

1. Remove the Air Filter Housing by unclamping it and removing the bolts located under the filter element. Remove the Clamp that holds the MAF to the Intake T pipe and disconnect the MAF harness. You can then pull the filter housing and MAF by rocking them back and forth while pulling them out.

2. Remove the Intercooler piping and Y-Pipe on the passenger’s side. Unscrew or unbolt all retaining clamps, disconnect the BOV host on the Intake Manifold, remove the PCV host that runs between the Intake T pipe and the front Cylinder head. Remove the host between the Y-Pipe and the Wastegate solenoid and remove the hose to the BOV, remove the Y-pipe. Be careful to not ruing the rubber seal between the Y-Pipe and the Throttle Body. Next pry on one Turbo Intake pipe and slowly work the Intake T pipe out.

3. Remove the Battery, Battery Tray and washer fluid tank

4. Remove the metal Vacuum line that runs from the front of the engine bay to the rear. This should be the pain in the butt piece that’s in your way right now.

5. Locate 2 x12mm bolts that attach the shift linkage brackets to the Transmission and remove them. Pull the cotter pins holding the shift cables to the transmission and disconnect the cables

6. Locate and remove the bolts holding the Slave Cylinder in place. They should be 2 x 12mm bolts on the rear side of the transmission.

7. You should see a piece of black plastic that has a wiring harness that goes into it. You should be able to unscrew this piece from the transmission. Use Extreme caution when taking this part out. If you were careful enough you should be able to remove the metal speed sensor pin that is still lying in the hole.

8. Remove the top side bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. These should be 14 or 17mm bolts.

9. Remove the bolt that holds the Transmission mount to the transmission mount bracket. This should be 1 17mm bolt with a 17mm nut on the opposite side. Be sure to use a wrench to hold the nut in place while removing the bolt.

10. Loosen the Lug nuts on both front wheels.

11. Jack the car up by using the cross-member just behind the radiator. Just raise the car enough to get the tire off.

12. Remove both Front wheels.

13. Lower the car to a leveled position

14. While an oil tray/pan is under the transmission remove the nut located on the transmission facing the inner fender well. It should be a 17mm nut.

15. While the transmission fluid is draining Get the Jack stands ready and start removing the plastic trim on the driver’s side inner fender well. The bolts will be 10mm and the trim tabs will be stripped out Phillips head trim screws. You’ll need to just pop those out.

16. Once the transmission fluid is coming out in a slow drip inspect the trans plug (17 or 19mm removed earlier) for excessive metal. Clean the metal off of the plug and put it back in the trans. No need to tighten it too much right now.

17. Jack the car up as high as you can get it and place the jack stands in a secure place. Due to safety reasons I won’t specify where to put them.. and lower the car back down on the jack stands.

18. Pull the 4 plugs in the passenger’s inner fender well and remove the 4 14mm bolts in there. These will remove the transmission mount.

19. Remove the 3 17mm bolts that hold the transmission mount bracket to the transmission.

20. Using the same process that was used on the driver’s side remove the passenger’s side inner fender well trim.

21. Remove the cotter pin and axle nut (32mm).

22. Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the spindle and inspect it. (17mm and a pickle fork is a must)

23. Remove the Hub from either the ball joint, or from the strut. Either one will yield enough space to remove the axle from the spindle, but one is more difficult to remove depending on the cars..

24. While pulling on the spindle push in on the axle until it is free of the spindle.

25. Remove the front lower plastic garnish (under cover). This will be held in with a series of 10mm and 12mm bolts.

26. Begin removing the downpipe. There will be 2 19mm nuts up front, 2 in the center (rear bank) and two attaching it to the CAT. Inspect the gaskets, replace if necessary. Remove the O2 sensors in the down pipe if working on a 96 or later.

27. Using a 12mm remove the Starter cover. One bolt is located against the engine block above the starter. There’s a very small area to work in. You should be able to see it though.

28. Using a 14mm remove the transmission support that runs under the transmission front to back. (There is/are 1 or 2 bolts on the top side holding the clutch booster to it also).

29. I find it handy to remove the brace on the driver’s side as well. That gets it out of the way just in case, but you don’t have to take this step. (14mm)

30. Using a 14mm remove the two bolts that hold the center bearing bracket to the engine block.

31. Pull back on the bracket until it’s released from the dowel(s) and rotate it back while pulling the shaft away from the transmission. Slowly work the axle out of the transmission, wrap the splines in paper towel or a soft towel and put off to the side out of harm’s way. (inspect boots).

32. Using a chisel or something long strong and flat pry the passenger’s side axle out. This one is a little more difficult normally. Use caution not to break anything.

33. Move your oil pan into position under the transfer case and remove the drain plug on the bottom of the transfer case (17mm or 19mm).

34. While the transfer case is draining remove the 12mm bolts that hold the starter in place. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the positive power cable to the starter and pull the starter out.

35. Put the transfer case drain plug back in when the fluid drain is reduced to a slow drip.

36. Remove 5 17mm Bolts that hold the transfer case in place.

37. Use zip ties or a bungee strap to hold the drive shaft in place.

38. Use a flat surfaced object to pry the transfer case way from the transmission. Once there is a cap you can begin to wiggle it out ( be sure the oil pan is under the drive shaft still as it will leak).

39. Remove the 17mm bolt located on the front side of the transmission. You will have to go through a hole in a bracket to remove this.

40. Remove the Transmission Stay bracket located on at the rear of the engine (2x17mm bolts).

41. You may have to remove the Transmission stay bracket located at the front of the engine (2x17mm)

42. Remove the bolt that holds the transmission to the rear side of the engine (17mm)

43. Remove the screws (10mm bolt heads) that hold the flywheel shield to the engine block.

44. Using a flat object attempt to pry the transmission from the engine. Using a rubber mallet bang the transmission alternating sides (front of the bell and rear of the bell) every few whacks. Once the transmission is ¼ of an inch from the engine you have to figure out how you’re going to deal with lowering it to the ground. I find using my chest as a trans jack works best. (you’ll have to use your own chest though).

45. Place yourself in harm’s way under the transmission. Slowly wiggle the trans out. Once it is away from the engine it will start to sag. Do not attempt to lift the trans or pull either. Simple attempt to rotate the transmission so the rear faces down. Be careful, this will make the transmission start to drop. If the transmission doesn’t slide out easily by now just use different attempts at different angles until the trans finally works itself out.

You’re pretty much done pulling the trans..
Good Job.. you just saved $540 worth of dealer labor costs.

[onebadmollafolla]

Good writeup!

[Fletch]

Great. I would like to add that the trans does not weigh too much. When I did my first clutch in the 3000 I was waiting for it to be somewhere in the weight of my old 700r4 trans (GM), much much lighter.
On chest it seemed about 50 or so pounds, probably off by a little but that is what I assumed after I caught it.
Oh and the install is a MF without a proper trans jack IMO. Took me about 40 minutes to balance the narrow end on a 2x6 and jack the trans up to mount the shaft, + about 200 cursing and smoke breaks. I just placed it on a jack, laid under there and move the jack away, and pressed the trans up in frustration. Worked great for me, but next time I am getting a little trans jack attachment....
Now that I have done it I would assume I can do it next time much faster.

[skater334]

When you're done with that, what's the easiest way to disassemble it to reove parts that are core charges?