Using MAF Translator with SAFC 2

[Lithium]

sounds like i need blow-through and a maft. (i know jack-squat about tuning, injector-size signals, etc).

since i won't be getting the pro, what should i use for boost control?

I just realized I destroyed my last post. Blow through means the MAF is after the turbos along the intake track and draw through means its before the turbos. Don't worry about the tuning its not as hard as people make it out to be. For the money the best boost controller I have ever used was a hallman MBC. It held up to 19 PSI all day long and it was very consistent.

[IPD]

i have a generic 3sx MBC that 3sx installed with my tt-swap originally. should i upgrade? do you have a good link for where to get it?

p.s.
STM seems to have KILLER prices on MAF components...

p.p.s.

< post 1,000. i am officially a WHORE.

[IPD]

Order

is this what i should get?

[IPD]

This is the way to do it. I use the maf translator to set the injector size then tune with the afc. You still set the afc to karman.

I still like the older maf translator best. An afc has great tunability and even has 2 maps. You can't beat it... its just so simple

i HAVE to ask the main man:

help me out, ray. lithium and a few others (yourself included) seem to think that maf-t (1g) blow through + SAFC2 is a great way to go. STM is telling me that MAF is garbage and i should stick to just SAFC2; or go directly to AEM.

my build is 3.5L, 16g, 680cc injectors (might upgrade to 750's later), pure pump gas (no power adders, no charge coolers). i currently have a 9966 ecu and SAFC2. i intend to use this car as my daily; and i desire a set & forget tune (i don't want to worry about climate change, altitude change, etc).

what do you suggest is the best option for me?

[Lithium]

Order

is this what i should get?

Yes that the MBC I was talking about. The ones in the pictures seem to have the cab control cable.

As for tuning, you really cant beat and AEM. The only issues I have ever encountered with an AEM is they all way run like shit until they warm up. It seems like an AEM would be more ideal for your build Since its so much more complicated then just larger turbos and injectors.

[IPD]

but that's the problem. i'm not going to be happy with an $800 tune on AEM. i want my car to feel, run and drive like stock. afaik, you're not going to be able to do that with AEM without plunking down just as much on tuning as you did on the unit itself.

when you take that into account, we're talking a $2500-3000 difference between maf & translator vs. AEM; including the tune.

[Lithium]

but that's the problem. i'm not going to be happy with an $800 tune on AEM. i want my car to feel, run and drive like stock. afaik, you're not going to be able to do that with AEM without plunking down just as much on tuning as you did on the unit itself.

when you take that into account, we're talking a $2500-3000 difference between maf & translator vs. AEM; including the tune.

I say go with MAFT and SAFC If you dont like the way it turns out then sell the setup ( they're very popular in the community) and go AEM.

[IPD]

fair enough. i'm ordering one.

[J. Fast]

i HAVE to ask the main man:

help me out... my build is 3.5L, 16g, 680cc injectors (might upgrade to 750's later), pure pump gas (no power adders, no charge coolers). i currently have a 9966 ecu and SAFC2. i intend to use this car as my daily; and i desire a set & forget tune (i don't want to worry about climate change, altitude change, etc).

what do you suggest is the best option for me?

A standalone is a great option and I would think would be the right solution. A MAF is a fantastic tuning solution as well. I think you would be exceptionally pleased if you used a GM MAF with a standalone. MAF is exceptional since it gives very accurate fuel delivery calculating. The thing with MAF is you need a controller with more granularity and resolution than an AFC to make it work properly, weather that be an AEM or Autronic. MAF / SD both are good and have trade offs. If you'r concerns are driveability use a MAF, but use an EMS too

The very problem you describe climate / altitude change / is resolved with standalone when you introduce both baro and map sensors and you tel the software to allow the map sensor to take a baro reading before start up. It will allow the ECU to re-zero the MAP KPA scale and "click click" start. It has been -30 degrees here in Colorado the past few days, last Thursday and Friday it was 60 degrees. Regardless if temp I get in my car, turn the key, and "click click" vroom. The past 30 below zero days it fired in two cranks but still took less than 5 seconds.

[IPD]

your suggestion is to get AEM and use MAF; rather than convert to speed density? reasons for this?

and i hadn't heard that i couldn't get enough fine-tuning from an SAFC+ MAF. care to elaborate?