2fnould's build log

**2fnloud** · 05-02-2011, 07:45 PM

Originally Posted by CoopKill

Another area you may want to deaden is behind the panels the 6x9s go in and the wheel well under the rear seats, the road noise emanates from there as well.

Looks good!

Will get there in time, I started here because the interior was out for the rear strut bar....thinking about going ahead with the CCF and MLV as well. Sense the fuel tank is a object between most of the hatch area and the road, I will skip it in the hatch area and add it with the CLD tiles in the areas that you mentioned and the floor of the car.

**2fnloud** · 05-05-2011, 11:44 PM

Just a small update, I figured out how to secure my amp rack without putting holes in the chassis of the car.

I attached these to runner boards to the car by using the plastic screw inserts that are used to hold the original compartments in place.

Now I have the joy of cutting up cardboard to make a stencil that contours to the trim AND my camel hump.

**reallyxxxxxxloud** · 05-08-2011, 09:34 AM

MMM your sound deadening that you have done, covering the larger panels will give you the best "money vs results" but heres the thing. Totally doing three layers will double the noise rejection you have done there minimum. I dont deaden to save money. I do it to get rid of the maximum amount of noise. The more dense the panel the less it will ring "period".

**2fnloud** · 05-08-2011, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud

MMM your sound deadening that you have done, covering the larger panels will give you the best "money vs results" but heres the thing. Totally doing three layers will double the noise rejection you have done there minimum. I dont deaden to save money. I do it to get rid of the maximum amount of noise. The more dense the panel the less it will ring "period".

Are you saying that my 25% coverage technique is a total lose? Or that more is still better? I didn't want my build log to turn into a debate, I just explained my logic for going with only 25% coverage, to save weight.

IF I was building an SQ competition, I would be that anal, but I am not. I still stand in the belief that the sound wave links provided. For typical use, 25% coverage significantly reduces the ringing of sheet metal.

Now if I was a SPL / SQ competitor, I will take EVERY action, do every trick in the book to squeeze every last Db or tenth of a point for clarity. So I would single, double, triple, layer my sound deadener to achieve that, but that is not what I am trying to achieve with my Stealth. I do not want the weight that 100% coverage would add, not to mention a second or third layer.

I sought out subwoofers that weigh less than 5lbs each with modest wattage ratings ans great excursion so I wouldn't need a huge and heavy amp to power them. I am attempting to achieve a outstanding system that will not horribly offset the performance of the car (wishful thinking I know but it is about finding a happy medium.)

Not everyone that builds their Stealth is trying to build a 1000AWHP monster

**reallyxxxxxxloud** · 05-08-2011, 09:28 PM

Year fair enough and yes the 25% coverage will stop about 50% of the panel ring. That amount is the most effective vs $ spent. The bigger and flatter the panel is the more it will resonate!!!!

I see where your going with this now Steven. I just didn't want people (or yourself) thinking 25% is all you need to get maximum effect.

**2fnloud** · 05-08-2011, 10:18 PM

Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud

Year fair enough and yes the 25% coverage will stop about 50% of the panel ring. That amount is the most effective vs $ spent. The bigger and flatter the panel is the more it will resonate!!!!

I see where your going with this now Steven. I just didn't want people (or yourself) thinking 25% is all you need to get maximum effect.

Point taken. Mate I wish we weren't half way around globe from each other, I am sure we would share brews and design some kick ass sound systems. My template for me base board is coming along nicely. In your opinion how thin can a get away with this base board? Keep in mind that I will be mounting amps to it. I am wanting to use 1/2", think it will be stable?

**reallyxxxxxxloud** · 05-09-2011, 03:47 AM

3/4" mdf minimum for sub box and half inch is fine for your base board. Yeah I'm sure we would share some brews. You could even get away with 8mm mdf but you would need supports in the right locations to stop sagging.

**2fnloud** · 05-15-2011, 02:32 AM

Been a bit since I updated this, been busy but here we go:

Stage one: rough cut...I use pieces of card board to get a basic shape around the interior trim

Stage two I refine the template with poster board until I am satisfied with it.

Stage three final cut: I trace my poster board template onto wood and cut it out.

**2fnloud** · 05-15-2011, 02:46 AM

OK this "hump in the hatch has been a PITA!! After getting my amp rack finished I learn that how I wanted to layout my system wasn't going to work, so I had to redesign my sub box again. After confirming my box parameters with a tech from parts express it was time to get busy.

The stack:

The assembly:

Complete and test fitted: Exactly how I wanted it

I think the box turned out OK time will tell, being my first time building a ported box, it turned out good.

And that brings you all up to date, thanks for looking.

**reallyxxxxxxloud** · 05-15-2011, 07:54 AM

Jesus whats that thing tuned at looks low? lol just looked at the box again and its small chamber makes sence to the port length now. Sorry I couldnt help with the box design my MB died (again) and I've only just been able to get back on my comp... looking good but port would of been better all the way towards the back. But what ever... Cant wait to see it finished....