2fnould's build log

[GTOJOE]

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[StealthX]

No there the square ones. All 3 are. 1 10" and 2 8". The wife has a stealth and i built boxes (2) to specs for the 8's. Not very happy,very soft sounding. The first one was a solid box. The second box was a single box for 2 subs sloted. Still not happy.(bad design on my part) Looked good sounded like crap. so i built a single box for a single sub slotted little better. Still working on that project.

[J_Parker]

Not much for mixing sub sizes, how is it working for you? I always felt that there were dead spots in the lowere frequency range.

[2fnloud]

He wasn't mixing subs. His ride has the 10", his wifes ride the two 8's

[StealthX]

I worded that post wrong sorry. The 10 is in the 3000 and the 8's are in the stealth.( but now there both out)

[J_Parker]

I worded that post wrong sorry. The 10 is in the 3000 and the 8's are in the stealth.( but now there both out)

No worries! Had I payed a little more attention to what you had posted earlier like I should have I would've know what you were talking about lol

[2fnloud]

Getting ready to pack these away with the other audio equipment I thought I would reveal and share what I will be using for subwoofers.



They are the Tang Band W8-1363SB. These subs love small vented boxes.



Here you can see they have a nice fat rubber surround for an Xmax that equal common 12's (12mm)

The voice coil is wound to four layers and has a SPL: 84 dB 1W/1m which is really good for a speaker with such a long Xmax.


I wouldn't call them the shallowest subs, they have a mounting depth of 4 3/4"


So far the only grip I have is that the speakers flange is not flat.


This will make getting an air tight seal tricky, not as easy if the flange was flat. I could see stacking washers to fill the void so my screws don't bend the flange and use the left over modeling clay as a gasket.

I chose these because they are design for small box, only need 120 Watts RMS /speaker so I do not need a massive amp to power all four, speaker itself has numerous reviews that are positive. But my favorite thing about these speakers so far....



In case you can't read that, it reads 4.8 LBS, only 4.8 LBS /speaker!!

That is all for now.

[green-lantern]

Damn! that is light!

[2fnloud]

With the weather finally starting to warm up enough, I am able to start working on this project again.

With the hatch plastic out for the installation of my rear strut bar, I decided to start to sound deadening the hatch and hatch floor.

I went with the 25% coverage approach in order to save weight. Also when you are using products like this the main intent is to eliminate the resonance from the metal.
It has been proven that 25% coverage does this properly. I will elaborate:

I pulled my resources from Sound Deaner Showdown:

The owner of SDS Don Sambrook, has been extremely helpful answering my barrage of questions. I came from the old mindset that you cover everything with the aluminum stuff and if it wasn't cutting it you just added another layer.

He isn't the cheapest, but his prices are in line with the competition, plus his website started as a info about sound deadeners before he had is own product line.

Here is what sold me on why 25% coverage is more than enough:



undamped | dampened

The next step is Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl (CCF & MLV):

I am undecided if I want to go this far yet in the hatch, the MLV adds allot of weight...like 1lbs per square foot. I inquired about just using the CCF but Bob explained to me that the CCF doesn't really do much by itself, it mainly acts like a vibration dampener between the MLV and metal surface you are wanting to soundproof.

Anyways enough of explaining my decision.... on to the pictures:






As you can see I have more than 25% coverage on the hatch floor....oh well.

[CoopKill]

Another area you may want to deaden is behind the panels the 6x9s go in and the wheel well under the rear seats, the road noise emanates from there as well.

Looks good!