Custom reverse swing braking and clutch system... Need a hand with a few things.

[J. Fast]

Anyone know where I can score the math info for calculating bore size diameters for a Tri-reverse mount double master pedal assembly? I was thinking about yanking all the stock brake and clutch assembly garbage and moving it to the other side of the firewall. I'm considering using a reverse pedal assembly and will defintely be upgrading to a dual master cylinder setup. I'm thinking this will make for better brakes in the long run, make for more room in the engine to make engine servicing easier, and clean it up too. I'm considering using Stoptech 6 piston fronts and moving the stock 4 pistons to the rear. Other options are going with a Wilwood 4 corner setup.

A couple of additional things I'm looking for are a nice tri-reverse pedal assembly setup (less than $300), steel brake line, retaining clips for solid to braided connections on the axle, a brake bias valve, and hydrolic flex lines for everything.

Should be a cool project, thanks in advanced everyone.

[J. Fast]

Not sure if I'm going to go with a remote setup but so far the things i'm interested in

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...403342~1_L.jpg

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91029974_L.jpg

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91641025_L.jpg

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...029974~5_L.jpg

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...029974~6_L.jpg

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...53404990_L.jpg

[J. Fast]

The info I was looking for and some good things to know if you're doing this:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/Pe...ster-Guide.pdf

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

As explained by Steve Ruiz at Stop Tech, "The conversion of a brake system from a typical, factory-supplied, vacuum-boosted (vacuum assisted) tandem master cylinder to a racing-style dual master cylinder requires that the assisting force originally provided by the booster be replaced by an increase in the mechanical leverage in the pedal assembly and/or an increase in the piston area differential between the master cylinder (connected to the pedal lever) and the brake caliper piston or pistons."

This is why I'm going to change the stock setup.

[TheRedStealth]

sounds awesome man, I say go for it

[Lithium]

Looks like a PITA...

[J. Fast]

Looks like a PITA...

Yes indeed, but when it's setup properly it's a driving experience words can't describe!

[anyonebutme]

1st things 1st, you don't need a bias valve/prop valve with a dual master system, what you need is a balance bar like that came on my Tilton floor mount kit. One master is for the fronts, one for the rear, and the balance bar adjusts your proportioning on the fly with a rotary adjuster like you pictured. Run one master with a "y" to the fronts (mine is on the firewall) keeping the lengths about equal, same with the rear (rear Y I put above the rear subframe). Don't forget that most circle track pedal boxes are setup for cable clutches, so make sure you'res has a master for the clutch. Gas pedal is easy, unless like me, you moved the pedals rearward and the stock cable doesn't reach. Lokar and others makes custom cables to fix this.

After I get off work I'll post what bore sizes I went with to match my calipers. This is just a guide because you adjust the sizes based on whether you want long travel or short travel and how hard you want the brakes.

[J. Fast]

1st things 1st, you don't need a bias valve/prop valve with a dual master system, what you need is a balance bar like that came on my Tilton floor mount kit. One master is for the fronts, one for the rear, and the balance bar adjusts your proportioning on the fly with a rotary adjuster like you pictured. Run one master with a "y" to the fronts (mine is on the firewall) keeping the lengths about equal, same with the rear (rear Y I put above the rear subframe). Don't forget that most circle track pedal boxes are setup for cable clutches, so make sure you'res has a master for the clutch. Gas pedal is easy, unless like me, you moved the pedals rearward and the stock cable doesn't reach. Lokar and others makes custom cables to fix this.

After I get off work I'll post what bore sizes I went with to match my calipers. This is just a guide because you adjust the sizes based on whether you want long travel or short travel and how hard you want the brakes.

Thank you very much for the input, I'm looking forward to the help!

I want long pedal travel and the pedal to be firm to achieve the latest braking possible without lockup.

I'm going with the tri setup so I can run the spare cylinder for my clutch setup which is an AASCO Flywheel mated to a Tilton OT2 with a hydrolic TOB.

It was my understanding a good practice is to run a bias to the rear due to variations in road surface conditions, inclement weather, tire selection, and weight transfer from the increase or decrease in the weight of fuel (since I do not have a baffled tank or foam). Since my setup is going to be a mixed use setup from dirt, street, and track I'm hoping to find a happy compromisable median.

When determining the piston diameter what else in conjunction with the dynamic weight, length and diameter of the line, and brake caliper piston area do I need to I calculate? A few people I have discussed this with had mentioned a book "Engineer to Win" or something along those lines that has the math info in there to size the master bore. If I can give you the corner weights and the assumed braking G's can you show me how you determined sizing everything?

Thanks for the help!

[GTOJOE]

Didn't read all the links so forgive me if this was already answered in one of them but what are you going to do about the handbrake? are you moving the complete front brake assembly [ie rotor and caliper] to the rear or just using the 4 pot caliper on the rear stock rotor? If so what are you going to do about the rotor thickness? Also usefull to know [you prob already know it] but the 2nd gen TT/VR-4 rear rotor is the same diameter as the 1st gen TT/VR-4 front. Thickness however is different.

Cheers,

Joe

[anyonebutme]

Computer ate my response. Anyways, this will help for now, that stoptech post has really all the formulas, but I suggest getting the Carroll Smith's book Engineer to Win because it's definately worth the $25.

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=faq&view=9