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Thread: Timing belt issue.

  1. #21
    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    As mentioned you clock the crank back one tooth because when you take up the slack it will roll it forward that one tooth. If you don't put it back one tooth then you'll be doing it again because you'll be off that one tooth.

    I had to do something similar recently when doing a head gasket job on a Toyota Tundra with a 3.4 V6. Every time I installed the belt I'd end up off two teeth. Nothing in the instructions said anything about rolling anything back, but when I watched the cam gear pull back as I set the tensioner I knew what was going to be necessary. I pulled the belt back off, clocked the cam gear forward two teeth and as I set the tensioner I watched it pull the cam gear right into time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by box View Post
    Well done.

    I've always done it with the crank at TDC, but I don't lock the cams. Work anticlockwise, starting from the crank, keep the belt tight and cable tie the belt to the cam sprockets as you go. Once you get to the end, the timing will be right, the belt will be tight and any slack will be at the tensioner.

    If the cams are locked (with bolts through the sprockets into the head or with plastic cam locks), you turn the crank back a tooth because you can't get the belt tight enough between the crank and cams to get the crank on the right tooth of the belt. Once you get the belt on this way, you turn the crank forwards to TDC and that takes up the slack between the crank and rear exhaust sprocket and puts the slack at the tensioner.

    Two different ways to do it, same outcome. It's one of those jobs where three hands is useful.
    Oh well that explains it then. Thanks for that. I think the way you do it seems the better way, and the way I think I'll do it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthee View Post
    As mentioned you clock the crank back one tooth because when you take up the slack it will roll it forward that one tooth. If you don't put it back one tooth then you'll be doing it again because you'll be off that one tooth.

    I had to do something similar recently when doing a head gasket job on a Toyota Tundra with a 3.4 V6. Every time I installed the belt I'd end up off two teeth. Nothing in the instructions said anything about rolling anything back, but when I watched the cam gear pull back as I set the tensioner I knew what was going to be necessary. I pulled the belt back off, clocked the cam gear forward two teeth and as I set the tensioner I watched it pull the cam gear right into time.
    I was going to do it the way box does it. But on second thoughts maybe I should just do it the way it's supposed to be done. I won't start it until it's all lined up anyway. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to retorque the crank bolt, as I don't have access to garage air guns. I don't have any problems getting them off, as I use the old crank the engine over with a bar against the engine bay method. It works a treat. But unlike a Subaru the GTO doesn't have a hole in the side of the trans for retorquing the bolt. Well not that I know of anyway. So I suppose it's put it in gear with the handbrake on, and try to do it that way?

  5. #24
    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    I used to put it in gear then jam a heavy screwdriver in the front rotor vane so it jammed against the brake caliper bracket. Worked great for crank pulley and axle nuts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthee View Post
    I used to put it in gear then jam a heavy screwdriver in the front rotor vane so it jammed against the brake caliper bracket. Worked great for crank pulley and axle nuts.
    Good idea. I might try that way myself. Gets the caliper to take up some of the strain.

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