Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 38

Thread: aws delete write up

  1. #21
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Owner Since
    oh five

    Location
    stop asking, texas IS a shiny penny.
    Posts
    437
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    oh dear..

    i have a 1 piece drive shaft already installed, and am considering installing this 3sx rear sway bar while i have the subframe out.

    i don't want the car to solid mount rattle.

    should i have issues with the 3sx rear sway bar and one piece driveshaft? can i figure this out before i reinstall this subframe with new sway bar?

    thanks..

    ediT:

    for the front, it seems like i should pick up some alan headed bolts, and bend the brackets.

    for the rear, i haven't seen any instruction yet.

    am i reading too much into everything like i was the subframe removal? should i just take my time and shim/grind as necessary and maybe be mostly fine?
    Last edited by shmoo; 11-23-2019 at 05:12 AM.




    awhh, you did it!//oheay fuck you
    _isiah

  2. #22
    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%)
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Owner Since
    2003

    Posts
    2,082
    Thanks
    113
    Thanked 276 Times in 210 Posts
    Depends on when you bought the rear bar. 3SX said they fixed the design, I don't know. I do know they didn't replace the bars for the people who had the ones that didn't fit. You just have to install it, and see if the bar hits the car at suspension droop, and hits driveshaft at suspension compression when the diff is loaded upwards like during a launch. This is important because that's why there were 2 carbon driveshaft blown up at NG. Diff pinion rotates up under throttle, so at full suspension compression you need like a half inch minimum space from driveshaft to sway bar. Also make sure the bar end links don't hit the axle bolts in the rear , that was also a thing.

    I can tell you where to look for issues, but yes, it's just a "you gotta just do it" thing. It may require putting the subframe in and out a few times, there is no shortcut.

  3. #23
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Owner Since
    oh five

    Location
    stop asking, texas IS a shiny penny.
    Posts
    437
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    should the hardware that came with the bar suffice for the rear sway bar?

    thanks

  4. #24
    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%)
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Owner Since
    2003

    Posts
    2,082
    Thanks
    113
    Thanked 276 Times in 210 Posts
    IF you have the new bar, I have no idea. IF you have the old bar you either have to make new end links, shorten the end links that came with the kit, or possibly use OEM end links. You then may have to shim the mounts upwards if it's close to the driveshaft, and then beat the bottom of the car with a large hammer until the bar stops banging the bottom of the car as you drive. Front bar I had to add washers to the end links to stop it from binding on the control arm, then swapped end link to the outside to remove the washers, which softens the front bar a tad:

    https://flic.kr/p/YoPE5V


    Take note in this picture I can't install the axle bolts because the end link is in the way:

    https://flic.kr/p/YmgxEN

    Take note in this picture the odd angle of the end link because the bar end does not meet where the end link is supposed to be:

    https://flic.kr/p/YmgxTo

    Take note in this picture I do not have the shims in the mounts to clear the carbon shaft, yet it still hit the car body in front of the diff:

    https://flic.kr/p/Xnux6P

    In these pictures you can see how far I had to bash the bottom of the car to clear the bar:

    https://flic.kr/p/XnuSg2

    https://flic.kr/p/XnuS6n

  5. #25
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Owner Since
    oh five

    Location
    stop asking, texas IS a shiny penny.
    Posts
    437
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    i feel like i have too much hardware for the aws delete. specifically too many nuts.

    i can understand using a nut underneath where i should have to use a 1/2 drill bit on the sub frame, but do i also need a nut for the inboard of the subframe, where the bolts actually thread into the subframe where the rear rack bolted in?

  6. #26
    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%)
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Owner Since
    2003

    Posts
    2,082
    Thanks
    113
    Thanked 276 Times in 210 Posts
    That's a question for 3SX

  7. #27
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Owner Since
    oh five

    Location
    stop asking, texas IS a shiny penny.
    Posts
    437
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    yeah, looking at ray's kit.. he does not have the extra two nuts pictured, and he's also got some nice tapered looking washers. what type of washers did you use?

    3sx's kit only has plain washers..

  8. #28
    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%)
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Owner Since
    2003

    Posts
    2,082
    Thanks
    113
    Thanked 276 Times in 210 Posts
    High misalignment bushings, so probably those tapered washer things you're talking about that are on both sides of the rod end.

  9. #29
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Owner Since
    oh five

    Location
    stop asking, texas IS a shiny penny.
    Posts
    437
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    thank you again..

  10. #30
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Owner Since
    oh five

    Location
    stop asking, texas IS a shiny penny.
    Posts
    437
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    what are you using for the end links for your rear sway bar?F0262976-0731-483A-9C16-F4B88F0EDD8A.jpg

    something like what is pictured in my attachment?

    whatever it is, it doesn't look stock.

    i've got the thing bolted up with stock end links, and it just doesn't sit quite right.. maybe...

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering