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Thread: aws delete write up

  1. #31
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    I posted pictures of my end links above, if it physically bolted together it's an improvement than what they shipped me.

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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 0 shmoo's Avatar
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    thanks^




    awhh, you did it!//oheay fuck you
    _isiah

  3. #33
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    alright, i bolted the rear subframe up and took it back down tonight.

    the carbon driveshaft hits the rear sway bar.

    shall i shim the subframe so it sits an inch lower? which seems ridiculous as i'll have to somehow add threads (length) to all four mounts?

    or maybe start by attempting to shim the sway bar up from the subframe?.. it seems like the sway bar has about an inch and a half of space from the body..

    and you said i need half an inch of space with the car up?

    the forward subframe mount "look" like they'll be easy to shim downwards, however the rears do not..

    it seems like you shimmed the mounts, but you said to raise the subframe. i think i want to lower mine. tips and specific turkeys?

    and i ran out of beer. the night is dead..

  4. #34
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    You do not want to lower the subframe unless you plan on putting the car with a ride height HIGHER than stock. End of that discussion, that is not an option. You'll have better luck getting the car to handle right by removing the sway bars completely, lol.

    The kit should have came with 2 pieces of metal with 2 holes about a 1/4" thick that fit under the sway bar bushing mounts. Those are the shims I am talking about. You may need to make some thicker ones depending on your car and how much droop your suspension has and how low you are. But let's first solve the initial problem before getting to that. Your end link length is the primary determined of driveshaft room. The shorter your end links, the more room you have to the driveshaft and less room to the car body itself. I need to see actual pics of your stuff installed to help further, as I can't see what's going on so I can't help you further with what you need to install it. There's complicated geometry involved where each change causes cascades of issues to figure out that I normally do in my head when doing this stuff.

    You're fast approaching the point where you discover the 3sx bar is a complete dumpster fire of pure shit, and you might be ill equipped to get it installed. If you would have asked me or any of the other guys who bought them when they first came out I would have told you not to. It's simply not worth it, and on top of not fitting makes the car handle like shit unless you have a specific need for large bars like my old setup using very soft springs. Only reason they are on my car now is I threw away my OEM bars and I'm too lazy to drop the subframe again. That shitpile of a rear bar is 75% of the reason my vr4 was no faster than a fwd tt car on the track.

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  6. #35
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    good jesus christ.. i'd rather not put the stock bar back on. but.. it's looking like. i'd kind of just like to drive this car.

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    well,

    i just took my first drive with the new sway bar installed. i had the new bar bent up (away from the driveshaft, which cost me more than the bar. i also shimmed the bar up where it bolts to the forward part of the sub frame. probably a little less than an inch.

    i also hammered the undercarriage of the car and cut the "eye bolt" mounts that
    3sx sent. i cut about an inch off of each mount.

    and chris, thanks for all the help, let me know if you need anything. like a stock sway bar or whatever, who knows, i may have it.

  8. #37
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    I need you to enjoy your car, lol.

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    got it..

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