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Thread: 3000Gt VR4 Clutch Pedal Issue

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    3000Gt VR4 Clutch Pedal Issue

    Sorry, I initially posted this in the wrong place...

    I recently purchased a 1992 3000GT VR4. The clutch was working fine. then, suddenly the clutch pedal would only travel about an inch or two and hit a hard stop. The clutch won't disengage and the car won't even turn over. I looked at the mechanism and the pedal moves but appears to "bottom out" inside the clutch booster well before it gets to the floor. There's a second mechanism (lever) that looks like it should move with the clutch master cylinder activation. It also should move the switch to allow the car to start. It doesn't move at all. I can press on the clutch pedal as hard as possible but it still will only move about an inch or two. It won't go anywhere near all the way to the floor. I do wee the rod going into the booster moving as it should.

    I started to change the master and slave until I realized something else is up. I pulled the slave off and still no difference. I don't want to change the master if it's something else. The fluid in the master never even moves so it appears as if there's some sort of disconnect between the booster and the master. It would logically seem that the clutch should still work even if the booster is completely shot.

    Can anyone help me figure out what's going on? I've been searching the internet but can't find anything about this. I've looked at the manual and online diagrams but cannot figure out what's going on.

    Thanks!

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    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    Sounds like your throw out bearing seized. I had the same issue once. I had to literally STAND on the pedal with both feet to get the neutral safety switch to disengage so I could start the car and move it into the garage. Trans has to come out to fix it. You may want to look into just getting a whole new clutch assembly and possibly a new flywheel or have your current flywheel machined.

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    That makes sense except that the slave cylinder is completely removed from the transmission and dangling in place. And it doesn't move at all, even when disconnected. The issue has to be forward from that. But thanks for the suggestion.

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    Hmm. Well maybe your issue is related to the booster after all.

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    Booster locking up is unlikely... I'm betting your master cylinder or slave seized. Open the bleeder and see if the pedal moves after. If not, Unbolt the master from the booster and see if you get pedal travel back.


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    Listen to Larry. He knows his shit.

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    Thanks! The car was sitting in an old storage area for about 5 years before I got it. It all worked for a few days then suddenly stopped. I was actually kinda shocked so much stuff worked. The car has been on the trailer this entire time and I've been concentrating on the bodywork, getting it ready to be painted. I'd rather it run and drive when I take it to the paint shop (I'm sure they would too). .

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    If you have to pull the master, it looks next to impossible, but it's not that bad... pull the rear IC pipe, unbolt the brake master from the booster, yank it up next to the steering reservoir without pulling the lines. Unbolt the A/C line over the the booster and flex it on the rubber sections, tying it up by the intake. Pull the 4 nuts and the linkage from the booster under the dash, and completely remove the brake booster... Once that's out, it's cake to do the clutch master.

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    Wow, thanks for the tips! This looked like a major PITA due to the lack of space. But your procedure will give me enough working room to at least minimize the pain.

    I was going to trailer this to a local shop and have them look at it. But the 3000gt VR4 is so obscure I'm not sure how much help they can be. I'm an ex-motorcycle mechanic and mechanical engineer and if it has me stumped...

    Besides, there's going to be a LOT of satisfaction in NOT having this issue beat me!

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    Owning these cars should be a requirement to get master mechanic, lol.

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