Transmission shims

[Unlogic]

After struggling with the lack of shims for our transmissions for a few years I've finally found a company that sells shims with the right outside diameter.



Here is a photo of the shims for our various bearings in 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.5 and 1 mm thickness along with the full part numbers.



Here a photo showing how to read the labels:



I've purchased the shims from this company:

http://www.momentum-industrial.com

They didn't have them in their standard catalog but after some research they managed to find shims with the correct outside diameter and slightly smaller inside diameter. The shims only cost about 2$ each and they are available in at least 1 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.2 mm and 0.1 mm thickness because that's the ones I bought.

I don't know if they sell internationally. If they don't I could probably buy a large set of these and pass them on to a vendor like Chris Hill or Ray Pampena as a workaround.

[Unlogic]

I forgot to mention that I've also managed to find shims for the input shaft end case bearing from the same company if anyone needs those.

[J-Fast]

Just out of curiosity, what is your shimming measurement technique for ensuring proper gear mesh? Are you using the solder method on all races and then putting it together and turning it over? Are you putting it together and just using solder on one end of each shaft and then splitting the difference? Or are you doing it one race/shaft at a time and checking gear mesh working your way from one end to the other... starting at front diff and working toward center diff to rear diff? Just curious as to what everybody's methods are to confirm gear mesh and back lash and which method is the most preferred.

[Unlogic]

I usually do the solder even though it's a bit time consuming. However when changing stuff like the center diff to the SCE one I usually shim both ends.