RPM dancing, poor driveability, help!

[kruqnut]

i didn't throw turbos and injectors and a tune at it. car came with turbos and no tune when i bought it, i thru the injectors in to replace the old ones, and knew i would need an upgrade when i tuned. Wideband is already purchased, but i need a new downpipe to go with it.

I don't know how well the engine is built, i didn't build it, you want me to tear it down for you, then rebuild it so i can verify the quality of the build?

I'm asking what i need to test to fix a dancing rpm issue, and you want to continually focus on problems with the car, unrelated to this issue.

I'm not asking for a solution, I'm asking what do i need to test to find my problem.

I've read up on the 560cc's and have done my research. But you know, since i have already told you, this same issue existed on the stock injectors, and nothing changed when i put the 560cc injectors in. But you keep trying to focus on that. I'm not stupid about this shit, I've already read pages upon pages of these forums looking for help before I made this post.

i'm sick of being on the defensive here, but 3/4 of everything you post is just telling me to either do something i've already done, or telling me about some issue that isn't directly related to my issue.

I don't have the wideband installed, what can be done without the wideband? The cars come stock without wideband, so how would i diagnose the problem in that situation?

When the snow melts again I'm going to run another compression test on the front bank since that seems to be where my o2 sensor is reading flat, and my pulse widths on injectors are longer etc, so seems to be lean there

maybe i messed up the front part of the engine the one time i ran the car after i swapped the o2 connectors and had to limp it home. but it's still behaving in idle etc just like it did before all that happened.

[kruqnut]

my 560cc were flow tested right around 560cc all of them within 1%. the car idles and runs down the road, exactly the same with the 560cc as it did with the stock injectors.

So if nothing changed when i changed injectors, you still think its the damn injectors, and keep telling me that my injectors are the problem.

[kruqnut]

If it's an air issue, what do i test, I've been over the MAF already, and been thru the system umpteen times for leaks and have found none, i had a couple on my throttle body and i fixed them, but car is still running the same. all details in the log are showing that the computer is trying to compensate for a lean condition. as far as I can read them. the rear o2 when warmed and fluctuating is staying below .5, the front o2 is at .2 and barely moves much at all. Maf readings were the same on both MAF i have.

I understand front o2 being bad will cause issues with AFR in closed loop. if my problem was only closed loop, i would fix this before i tried to do anything else, but since my problem is open loop as well, i'd like to find the problem before i go investing hundreds of dollars more into this car.

[futurevr4man]

Change the periphery in chrome to run in only open loop and take your bad o2 out of the equation. Open loop and closed loop aren't something the car just does at idle. Open loop occurs at ~3000 rpm and closed loop/o2 feedback below 3000. If you haven't changed the periphery, I would do that and see if it works any better.

[kruqnut]

I can try that, thanks, i know open loop and closed aren't an idle thing, car is open loop till it warms up, then runs closed loop at low power situations.

-everything on hold right now with the winter storm we got.