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Thread: How to remove clutch master cylinder and vacuum booster

  1. #1

    How to remove clutch master cylinder and vacuum booster

    I had a problem with my 1997 3000GT VR-4 a few months ago and replaced the clutch slave cylinder and the flex line. The problem was gone until today when it came back.

    I could not shift into reverse to pull out of a parking spot. So I tried 1st and it would not go into gear. I then tried any gear and it would not go.

    I shut the car off and then could shift into any gear.

    I have the transmission rebuilt a couple of years ago

    My guess is that it is the clutch master cylinder or the vacuum booster.

    Are these difficult to replace?

    The service manual lists removing the brake booster. Can I remove the clutch master cylinder without removing that?

    Thanks
    Tony

  2. #2
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    Brake booster is going to have to come out on a TT. The bolts for the clutch master go in from the engine bay side into the firewall so there is no easy way to access them with the booster in the way.

    On the NA it is possible to do with the booster in, but that is because the bolts are accessed under the dash.

    Is the clutch master difficult to replace? I wouldn't say difficult, but it is not fun.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  3. #3
    I took a quick look and, Wowzers! Not a lot of room there is an understatement

    I don't have to remove the brake lines do I ?

    I called a Mitsubishi dealer and the clutch master cylinder is discontinued.

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    Pull the brake master away from the booster. You can flex the lines and not remove them, it will pull quite a ways over in front of the motor. Pull the AC line and brackets out from above the brake booster. I pop the cruise control assembly and cables up and lay it on the intake. If you remove all the retainers on the suction hard line you can flex it up and bungee it out of the way. Then you can disconnect from the pedal, pull the four studs, and the booster will wiggle out of it's hole. Sounds cumbersome, but it actually doesn't take much time at all once you figure out the sequence.


    Real Performance Automotive (541)816-4500 www.FB.com/RealPerformanceAuto

  5. #5
    Does the brake system have an arm that extends from the master cylinder to the brake pedal?

    I am wondering if it has a pin that needs to be removed before I can pull the brake booster and master cylinder away fro the firewall

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    There is an arm that connects tbe brake booster to the pedal. You'll see it when you're crawling under the dash to get the 4 bolts for the booster otself.

  7. #7
    Ah, that would explain why I couldn't see the brake booster bolts in the engine compartment.

    I will take a peek under the dash to see. Thanks!

  8. #8
    I replaced the clutch master cylinder and bled the system. The pedal feels real strong.

    Unfortunately it did not fix the problem.

    I can shift fine when the car is not running. But when running, I can't shift into any gear

  9. #9
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    You may have a clutch or pressure plate issue.

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