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I have only had 3 track days but learned a lot over that time and would like to share what I've learned for those that are interested. It seems like there are more people auto crossing or road racing than I ever remember.
Basic Track Prep:
1. Clean out your interior and clean all windows. (glare on a sunny day sucks)
2. Wheels and tires - Make sure you have plenty of tread, no odd wear, proper air pressure, no cracks in the wheel ect. I usually keep air pressure around 32-34 psi for the first session and let the tires heat up. Once hot, I'll run them around 36-38psi on the track.
3. Suspension (Alignment) - This is a no brainer but make sure you have a proper alignment and inspect your suspension. ***My first track day inspection, I had loose rear suspension bolts*** You should have to do an inspection anyway before the track day, but I always get under the car and check. For alignment, the best I could get is 0 degrees toe (very important) and -1 camber all the way around. Ideally, you want -1.5 up front, -1 rear camber for our cars. (I need Eibach camber bolts)
4. Fluids - Make sure all of your fluids are fresh and topped off if you want your car to last. I run RBF600/660 brake fluid and do a full flush before every track day. (you can get away with not doing it on AutoX) I did Redline full synthetic for the entire drive train. Engine oil I normally run Rotella T6 and it's done well. With the last round of mods and weight reduction, it thinned out a bit on my last track day as I was running a lot harder. I switched to Redline 10w40 my 2nd track day that weekend. It held up a bit better but I think I will go 10W50 for my next one.
5. Brakes - One of the most important things! Inspect them and make sure you have plenty of pad and that there is no abnormal wear or cracking. My first track day, I faded my Hawk HP+'s but later learned a lot of that was from not track braking. (giving full pressure to stop, riding the brakes will heat them up extremely fast) For my 2nd event, a 2 day weekend, I upgraded to Carbotech XP10's up front and Hawk HP+ in the rear. This setup did very well and I never faded the brakes although they did get a bit spongy a few times. (when testing their limit and reducing braking distance) My best recommendation on stock brakes is very aggressive pads and as much weight reduction as you can do.
6. Engine - Inspect everything and make sure there are no apparent leaks, frayed wires, things unplugged, ect. Make sure your battery tie down is snug.
7. Weight Reduction - There are plenty of threads but these are the simple things that I've done so far. Replace stock leather seat with an N/A cloth manual seat. Remove back seat bottom. Take out everything in the hatch trays and hatch cover. Lightweight wheels. I have Enkei RPF-1's that weigh 18.3lbs each. Turbo back exhaust. EGR delete. Remove heat shields for turbos. Delete Evap Canister and lines. Stock size lightweight crank pulley.
8. Driving on the track - Our cars are very strong on the track despite all of the real and perceived negatives that you have heard. On stock turbos, our top end is weak and that's a fact. I trap ~108mph on stock turbos which is great but not awe inspiring. We are heavy relatively compared to track inspired cars but surprisingly nimble with the stock setup. Make use of early braking and plan on powering through the corners. There is a lot of body roll stock and you will need to at least upgrade all bushing to poly. I am in the process of doing this and will update this Nov. on my next track day. I'm hoping taking out the slack from worn rubber bushings and old end links will stiffen up the suspension significantly. We definitely under steer but with trail braking we can rotate the beast pretty well. I rode in my instructors Focus RS and it's night and day vs. that thing. Make sure you power on earlier than you feel like you should. The car's AWD does a very good job of keeping traction and moving you where you are pointed. I struggled with this a lot. LOOK TO WHERE YOU WANT TO GO. One of the biggest rookie mistakes is following the car in front and focusing on whats immediately in front of you instead of looking at where you want to go. Make sure you track brake. You want a smooth press of the brake and then stomp it to the floor. Let off easy into the turn (trail brake) and your stock brakes will hold up just fine with upgraded fluid and pads. I couldn't get mine to fade at all. If you brake like you do on the street, pressing but not full pressure, you will cook your pads and fluid very fast. Make sure you heel toe as well. I thought it wasn't possible but you really have to be somewhere you can lay into the brakes, then the pedals are next to each other. This makes late braking a lot easier and prevents you from upsetting the car.
This is something I just threw together but will edit and add as I remember more.
**After doing three tracks days I noticed the Rotella T6 5W40 was thinning out so my 3rd day I went to get Redline 10W50. Unfortunately, they didn't have enough so I did 10W40. It still thinned out. I think we really need 10W50 or some variation for road racing as it's hard on the oil. I'll stick with Redline but I've heard Amsoil and Valvoline VR1 is good as well. I'll report back hopefully in Nov. if I can swing it.
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