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Thread: Gravel Stealth Build

  1. #71
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 Blake.80486's Avatar
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    Ha, seams I bragged to much, IAC stepper stuffed it.
    It was working yesterday morning for sure. Today it needed throttle to start and barely idling at 550rpm
    But that's manageable (just needed to turn the biss screw out a bit) and I can fix it on my own time.
    Could be the motor itself (it was in ruff shape, almost a bit melted) or the prototype ECU, I'm using a megasqurt module and my own interface board. That interface board has had a lot of revisions sins installing it. Probably time to make a new one.

    Anyway, picked up some 2" exhaust tubing to weld in a J (resonance) pipe to hopefully save my hearing.

  2. #72
    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    IAC doesn't affect starting. You can easily test it though.

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    Imagine the pins are the numbers above. You want to use a multimeter to check resistance across neighboring pins. IE across pins 1 & 2, 2 & 3, 4 & 5, and 5 & 6. Resistance should be somewhere around 28 ohms if memory serves me correctly. If they all check out then the IAC is good.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

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    If the BISS wasn't set per manual than a stuck IAC will prevent starting. Honestly, I've driven one of my cars for years with no IAC and it was fine. If your ECU can do timing based idle control you can use it for fine tuning.

  4. #74
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 Blake.80486's Avatar
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    I'm not running the stock ECU.
    I'm running a Microsquirt module on a custom board I designed and built.
    Anyway, I fixed the IAC, some of the plastic was deformed and it was jamming.
    I will be replacing it, but not right now.

    On my car I need the biss almost closed to idle at 750rpm when warm. Possibly slight intake leaks. So with the IAC stuck closed it was vary hard starting when cold. After opening the biss screw up a couple turns it started, but would of course not idle down. I'm trying to get AC working, and I live up north, so I'll need the IAC for the winter. It's not going to be a daily driver, but I will be driving it regularly.

    Started on fixing the AC, my '93 was "converted" to r-134a at some point. As the fitting have bean changed, but it still had the old pump and bracket.
    Sins I couldn't find the r12 compressors I'm going to do the conversion properly. Ordered, pump, filter/dryer, TXV, o-rings, and the new lines in and out of the pump.
    I'll have to modify the old bracket or make a new one. But hopefully I have AC this weekend.

    Also started fixing the lock cylinders, They where in bad shape, but seam to be fixable.
    Now the key I have still won't open them, it's just way to worn down.
    Going to see if I can get a key cut slightly oversized and file it to fit properly (with the door cylinder out I can see the pins and where it's off). Alternatively getting a dealer to cut one from the vin would work, but I'm not sure they can do that with this old of a car.
    Last edited by Blake.80486; 08-13-2019 at 11:37 AM.

  5. #75
    Monogamous Gigolo verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) 2fnloud's Avatar
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    You can get a key cut from a vin with these cars.

  6. #76
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 Blake.80486's Avatar
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    Guy is coming out tomorrow to do that, ether cut from vin, or using the door lock cylinder for reference (I pulled both to clean as they where non working).
    Had to special order the key blank, no-one around here stocked it.

    But as of this evening I have working AC, converted to r-134a, it';s not that big a deal to modify the older bracket.

    Also replaced the home-built TMAP sensor with an off the shelf Bosch unit (and modified the intake manifold to fit).

  7. #77
    Member verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) B-Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blake.80486 View Post
    Guy is coming out tomorrow to do that, ether cut from vin, or using the door lock cylinder for reference (I pulled both to clean as they where non working).
    Had to special order the key blank, no-one around here stocked it.

    But as of this evening I have working AC, converted to r-134a, it';s not that big a deal to modify the older bracket.

    Also replaced the home-built TMAP sensor with an off the shelf Bosch unit (and modified the intake manifold to fit).
    Toni used to make blanks. He might have some odd-ball colors still around.
    '92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - Aug. 2012 COTM

  8. #78
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 Blake.80486's Avatar
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    Well, got it all back together, including two new keys cut ($60 and he came to me). They work in all the locks.
    Put 6 hours of driving on it over the last week.
    Everything seamed fine except a bit of noise from what I thought was one of the AC belt idlers.
    But on my way home last time it skipped a few teeth on the belt, best guess at the moment is it was a timing belt idler that stuffed it.
    I had already ordered the new idlers and a timing belt kit (belt isin great shape but the car sat for a few years)
    Bent valves for sure. So I'll be doing the timing belt when that comes in, and doing a compression test. If I'm lucky just intake valves on one head.
    Not giving up on it, hope to have it back on the road in a month. Though might do some head work if I'm in there anyway.

  9. #79
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 Blake.80486's Avatar
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    Well fuck. Just pulled the timing belt, turned it over by hand to align the crank timing mark, and the cams are within a tooth.
    So maybe rod knock. So full rebuild before I can get it back on the road.

  10. #80
    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    You seem to be making a lot of assumptions. Maybe just take a step back and do some diagnosis before you assume the worst. Would hate for you to do a complete rebuild when it's not neccessary

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