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Thread: Gravel Stealth Build

  1. #61
    It's the same as the Megasquirt 2 (same manufacture software etc), but smaller and cheaper: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...t-module-v2-2/
    It was originally sold for bikes and such in a water tight case, but that has a few less pins.
    You can now buy just the module and it has a few extra.

    It looks like pin 20 is an input from the climate control, and 22 controls the AC clutch directly, so I'll need to do something with that (the Arduino will control that).

  2. #62
    Looks like the stepper drivers and ecu will be in Monday.
    I'll be ordering mouser this afternoon, it turns out they stock the connector for our OEM ECUs: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/T...ru1NMUcA%3d%3d
    Encase any one else needs it, they have the connectors for other years as well under the same family.

    So I won't be pulling the old one off the old ecu.

    I'll pull the wideband from my other car and integrate that.
    So in a project box of some sort I'll have:
    Microsquirt Module
    Barometric sensor (half of a mapdady).
    Stepper driver (off the shelf module, that just needs a step, direction, and enable pins from the ecu).
    Two peak and hold drivers, as I'll be batch firing the injectors. Only the Megasquirt 3 can do sequential on more then 4 cylinders.
    Wideband controller (14point7 kit I've bean playing with).
    Possibly an Arduino if I need more pins on the Microsquirt (it can run the boost gauge etc).
    KnocksenseMS module connected to the original knock sensor.

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  4. #63
    Well, old thread, but no reason not to update it.
    Car sat almost a year, I did get a few things done after the last post.
    EGR delete, all new brake lines (including braded flex lines) and prop valve.
    Fooled around with a Microsquirt module, still on the table, but for right now I fixed the stock ECU to get it on the road.


    Pulled it out in September and started working on it again.
    Found a crack in the exhaust flex (presumably causing the drone at highway speed).
    Pulled the exhaust, fuel tank and rear subframe.
    Cleaned up the fuel tank, fixed the tank vent, and bodged a fix for the fuel pump.
    Removed the rear steering rack, pump, lines, then installed the rest of the delete kit.
    Gutted the rear pre-cat (worst job I've ever done), front pre-cat was already done.
    Welded up the new SS flex, and a slip coupling that will be easy to remove later.
    Snapped the front exhaust studs, so that was fun to fix.
    Rear studs are in bad shape, left stud was cross threaded and stripped when I tried to tighten it, I'll fix that later.

    All new battery cables and terminals.
    Pulled, and re-installed the right intercooler so I could toss the ABS pump.
    Tossed the charcoal canister.
    Pulled and re-installed the dash so I could install a boost gauge.


    I've got an appointment for a safety next week.
    Before that all I need to do is install a few interior panels (poring ran today, so I did what I could from the inside, but the rest I'll have to have the doors open).
    And I'm going to poly fill the top engine mount.

    Might poly fill the other mounts too, but they look in better shape, and are harder to get at, so it won't happen this weekend.
    Last edited by Blake.80486; 11-30-2017 at 10:21 PM.

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  6. #64
    And of course as of this morning it's missing again.
    Pulling the plug wire on the front center cylinder has no affect.
    Plugs look sooty, and does seam to be running rich.
    Last edited by Blake.80486; 12-01-2017 at 02:47 PM.

  7. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blake.80486 View Post
    And of course as of this morning it's missing again.
    Pulling the plug wire on the front center cylinder has no affect.
    Plugs look sooty, and does seam to be running rich.
    Keep going at it and never give up... when you get bogged down on something take a break and rethink things ...best of luck


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #66
    Okay, it's bean way to long. But it's finally running with the Microsquirt.
    Stock ECU took a shit, someone else had already replaced the capacitors but never cleaned the board, and a few traces where eaten away.
    I was unable to fix it and get it to reliably run.

    Bought a house with a shop a few months ago and towed the Stealth here a few weeks ago.
    First start was this morning. I forgot to weld a bung in for the wideband, but I should have that in and the car driving by the end of the week.

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  10. #67
    BAD ASS - I've got one Not Verified
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    Way it goes with these things, good luck.
    Ranked No. #1 in initial quality

    Idiots, simply by being idiots, seem capable of achieving randomly bad things that are beyond the imaginings of sensible people.

  11. #68
    We lost one of our daily drivers a few weeks ago, so I'm hopping to get it on the road soon so I can atleast drive to the store while my partner is at work.
    You're not going to like it, but we're planning to drive it through the winter. Maybe do some rallies.
    Picked up new struts, and I'll be making new top hats with 2" spacers.

    Did a little tuning, got it starting and idling perfectly.
    Of course developed a fuel leak while in storage (or while towing it here). It got worse wile testing. So replacing all those lines. Going with copper nickle (same thing I used for all the brake lines). 3/8" feed and 1/4" return like stock. If you actually calculate the pressure drop, larger lines are useless.
    I have the 1/4" but the 3/8 had to be ordered in, I expect it early next week.
    Bung for the wideband is welded in. but that can't go in until the fuel lines are dealt with.
    Ordered a knock sensor, I'll have to pull the intake, but that should let me tune the top end safer (without being overly conservative).

  12. #69
    Well, took way to long, but finally on the road. Legally registered on Wednesday. Only took 3 years.

    The safety requirements in Ontario are stupidly strict. For an example, it failed safety last week because the ABS and check engine light didn't work.
    But because of it's age and weight, it doesn't need ABS, but the light had to be on. And of course it doesn't have the stock ECU, so check engine light is useless (I'll end up using it for knock indication or something).

    Anyway, I've sins put 200km on it and it's running decent, I just have it limited to waistgate pressure right now as I still have plenty of tuning left to do.
    My homemade intake air temperature sensor seams to be bad. Ordered a 3bar bosh TMAP sensor (this car has bean converted from MAF to MAP based).

    Next job is removing some exhaust drone, and fixing the AC.

    But it's nice to be able to just hop in and and take a drive (infact I'll be doing that in a few minutes).

  13. #70
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    Nice.

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