Gravel Stealth Build

[Blake.80486]

Looking to pickup a non running '93 Stealth TT tomorrow.
$_27.JPG
120mile tow one way, so I'll be renting a truck and a flat bed as all I have is a Subaru wagon.
It doesn't run, and has bean sitting for a few years. But I should be able to get it cheap.
Seller is fine with me running a compression test, so I'll be bringing my tools to pull the intake and plugs.
I assume he's already tried to start it.
Transmission was replaced with a 6 speed, otherwise I would have preferred a '94+, I still prefer the newer headlights, but that's minor.

After anything it needs to run (I'm currently suspecting fuel pump):
Drain fuel and install new fuel filter.
New oil and oil filter.
Plugs (NGK copper)
Plug Wires (they look brand new, so shouldn't need to be done).
Timing belt kit with water pump and hydraulic tensioner.
Accessory belts
New coolant
Transmission oil
Rear Diff oil
Brake fluid
Clutch fluid
Power steering fluid
Battery
Pads and rotors, if the calipers need to be re-built and can't be I'll upgrade to 94+ brakes at the same time.


If it is the fuel pump, I'll go right to a Denso 9500155

First few mods as they're cheap/free:
Rear Mount Battery
Remove rear seat
Lighter Manual front seats (old driver's seat is shot anyway)
Front Washer Fluid Reservoir Delete (using rear tank as feed)
Replace power antenna with fixed

When funds allow and in no particular order:
New downpipe and gut pre-cats
Cat-Back exhaust (It already has a good looking aftermarket exhaust)
Gravel coilovers
Aluminum 2-pice driveshaft
I'm looking into an Air to Water intercooler setup, bit more complicated, but allows for much shorter piping after the turbos, so I should get less lag when I upgrade those.


Fuel pump (if not already done)
550cc Injectors
Instead of a boost controller, I'm considering moving over to a standalone ECU.
I can fit a Microsquirt module, and peek/hold injector driver inside the original ECU box.
That can run everything for me, and it's happy up to 44psi (not that the car would ever come close to that).
That would convert it from MAS to a MAP setup.
It also lets me do ridicules things like launch control, or possibly flat shift / power shift.

The ultimate goal is to rally cross it, and I have a fondness for dirt/gravel.
Not exactly what she was designed for, but it'll be fun.

What do you think?

[Amphiron]

If it's a 93 it's probably the ECU. Make sure you check under the car to see if the oil pan is dented. Check under the car for rust, specifically under the floor panels. I'm telling you 100% it's probably not just the fuel pump. But you are well on your way to having a reliable 3S with that list. Good luck!

[Blake.80486]

Picked it up and got it dropped of at my work (where I'll be working on it). But there was no time to work on my it tonight. Fuel pump was not running but as you say it could be the ECU. If that's the case it'll get converted to megasquirt sooner. No dents in the pan so far as I could tell. But I'll get a better look later the week. Rust wasn't bad, manageable.

[Blake.80486]

Top of the sending unit was pretty rusts, but cleaned up alright, looks fine internally.
The ground wire was broke off, and I broke off the last three (of six) bolts taking it out.
So someone else was in there.
Also the fuel return line was broken. Sins I do not want to drop the tank I'm going to fit a return line in the sending unit, so I can plumb it to that.
It of course started to rain, so I didn't get as much done as I hopped, but I took the pump with me to test at home.
Shows 7ohm, and runs fine (I only ran it for a moment, as most of these units require the fuel for cooling and lubrication.

Monday, over my lunch break I'll add the return line to the sending unit.
Then after work I can re-mount it.
I have rivnuts, so I'll probably drill it out and use those. But I'll have to see if I have a long enough air hose as the install tool is pneumatic and the car is 100+ft from the closest air connection.

[Blake.80486]

I was mistaken, it was not the fuel return, but the vent that was rusted and crumbled.
New ground line connection on the sending unit, the pump seams to run fine.
It stuttered a couple of times and caught for a moment once.
It looks like the stealth has a 75l tank and was about 1/3rd full.
I only have a little 5l jerry can (it was meant for filling my bike) so it took a while, but I got 15l drained and put that in my own vehicle.
It's not 1/4 old gas, and runs fine. %l in the can will go in my partner's car.
That leaved me with 5l that a co-worker might end up with lol

Now my experience with fuel injected vehicles has bean they'll run on anything (though not well), is it possible there's something else bad?
Or is this vehicle just a bit picky with old gas?
With the pump running (using the test point by the battery under the wiper motor) it doesn't really sound like the regulator is restricting flow to build pressure.
So I may put a gauge together tomorrow to test fuel pressure.

[Blake.80486]

Seams this forum is just about dead. But I'm going to continue to log my progress hear.

It did not start with new fuel. Probably a good thing, as the line to the oil cooler ruptured sometime in the testing and made a mess.
I'm going to see if I can patch it up for testing tomorrow.

Checked the ECU, capacitors already replaced, if I'm to take the previous owner's word it ran after that work was done, so I'm going to leave it for now.
Read somewhere to try it with the MAF disconnected, no go.

Good news is it has a full aftermarket exhaust (had a look after I jacked it up).
Tomorrow I'll check cam timing.

[futurevr4man]

I've been reading, no worries! But yeah, this isn't the supraforums or any of the big name places... it's a relatively small crowd that comes around here!

I was going to tell you to check timing first and foremost. I'm also curious about your ignition system... did you replace plugs? Did you check to make sure coils are firirng?

[Blake.80486]

I only checked the front, plugs are definitely firing, they look alright, I'm going to see if Canadian Tire stocks the plugs (my preference is the NGK copper V-Power).
Wires look brand new, supposedly changed just before the car was stored (making them 4 years old).
I hadn't gotten around to doing the cam timing as the belt looked fine, but I'll do that this evening.
That'll just be a pain, as I'll have to roll the vehicle forward to get it aligned, and I may not be able to roll it back into the spot (slight incline).

I'm doing this in the parking lot of my work, no-one minds, though I had to make a point of cleaning that oil.

[stealthee]

Why do you have to roll the vehicle to align it? You can turn the crank over by putting the bolt back into its hole and once tightened it will turn the crank over.. To take it back out either use an impact, or just smack the breaker bar with a quick jerking motion to break the bolt loose without spinning the crank backwards.

[Blake.80486]

I did not remove the belt. I was cheeking cam alignment encase it skipped a tooth, or the last guy (it is a new belt) put it in wrong.
A breaker bar could have still bean used, but I didn't have a socket handy that would fit (I have a lot of my tools still in storage after a move).

Okay, I got it running, and managed to drive it around the parking lot (slowly).

There's an electrical issue with the ecu/fuel pump.
I can hear the pump running for a moment after I crank it over, but it wouldn't start.
If I connect the test terminal to the battery (so the pump runs continually) it starts and runs fine.
Possibly a bit rich (I've bean told that the stock fuel regulator can not keep up with the pump when at idle).

No brakes, I strongly suspect a broken line near the rear, I did see a spill about where the rear diff is.

No power steering, I had filled the reservoir up, but it was totally empty before I started.