Gravel Stealth Build

[futurevr4man]

You can put the non ABS prop valve in the same spot as the normal prop valve, and just use the rear lines that already run up to there. That's what I am doing on mine.

[Blake.80486]

One of those lines is the one that was leaking (looks like the OEM nicked the paint when they where bent, and it rusted there).
I was planning to put it near the master cylinder, I can find enough room there. Then it's easy to bend hard lines from the master cylinder.
Then I'm using a single SS line from the prop valve to each front caliper (those custom lines are cheap).
And hard lines with a splice behind the battery to the original lines going to the rear.
I also got new SS flex lines for the rear, but a single piece instead of two, I'll just make a bracket to hold it.

After that it should safety.
It will need new struts next. But for financial reasons we're going to put that off a bit.

[DocWalt]

Good progress

Megasquirt should be a fun project. Nearly as capable as the big name aftermarket ECUs for a fraction of the price!

[Blake.80486]

Well, the weather this week hasn't cooperated, so not a ton got done.
3SX and half the Rock Auto order came in Monday.
I don't have a working tracking number for the SS brake lines from Techna Fit, it's not even showing as valid.
this is the response I got when I asked about it:
Yes, it has been shipped, but for some reason on USPS it shows not being good when goes international.
Gu=ve a couple of days.


The other half of RockAuto (parking brake hardware and oil filter). Should be in today.

Yesterday was nice, so I pulled the cross-member and blocked off the rear high pressure lines (I blocked off the low pressure lines before).
Also got the lines run from the master cylinder to the new prop valve.

If it clears up (doubtful) I'll connect the hard lines to the rear brakes, and start pulling the rear steering rack.
I'll be leaving the pump in for now as pulling the sub-frame is a bit to large a job to do in a parking lot. Once it's on the road I can bring it to my parent's place to do that.
The pump will be fine for the <100mile trip.

[Blake.80486]

Flex lines came in Friday so I did the parking brakes, rear rotor and pads

Went up Sunday and did the front brakes.
So the new prop valve is in place, and all new lines from the master cylinder to front brakes.
I hooked into the rear brake lines behind the battery, but I now suspect there's another leak near the rear of the car.
If that's the case, I'll just replace the lines all the way back.
I only bled the front brakes, but the pedal felt off.

I took it for another run around the parking lot. Power steering is totally fixed now, so that was a bit more fun.
Reverse is really hard to get into, I'll do the bushings something this week and see if that helps, otherwise I'll adjust it.

[futurevr4man]

I assume this is common information, but you know you need to bleed from furthest away from master to the nearest right? So rear passenger, rear driver, front pass, front driver... in that order. You'll have a hard time getting the air out otherwise.

And make sure nothing is sitting on/hitting the counterweight on the transmission... can affect getting into reverse

[DocWalt]

Also, rear brakes seem to make more of a difference in pedal feel than front brakes. Since the rear brakes see a comparatively small flow of fluid any little bit of air makes a big difference in feel.

[Blake.80486]

I'm well aware of how to bleed brakes.

In this case I only did the fronts because I could do that without removing the wheels.
It had started to rain, so I quickly did that so I had at-least some braking, and took it around the building.

But at-least on the plus side power steering is working perfectly.

My partner is getting the temp tags tonight, so we can take it to get safetied and e-tested later this week.

[futurevr4man]

I'm well aware of how to bleed brakes.

In this case I only did the fronts because I could do that without removing the wheels.
It had started to rain, so I quickly did that so I had at-least some braking, and took it around the building.

But at-least on the plus side power steering is working perfectly.

My partner is getting the temp tags tonight, so we can take it to get safetied and e-tested later this week.

Wasn't insulting you, just wanted to be sure you knew

[Blake.80486]

Sorry, crappy day at work, so I took it a bit personally.
There was a small leak at the prop valve, just took tightening it a bit (that explains the sinking pedal I had before).
After work we bled the rear brakes. I didn't bother doing the front again, as the pedal was hard, and I'll be replacing those flex lines when I have time anyway (starting to get cold up hear so it may wait will I can bring it up to my parent's garage).
Put the plates on, and took it for a drive.
Oh, and replaced wipers.
Everything seams fine.

I still need to replace fuel filter, I forgot to order it before, so we picked it up locally.
Remove ABS pump, it's disconnected, but still bolted in.
Remove the EVAP system.
Replace the rear flex lines, possibly replace the hard lines all the way back if they are bad.
Replace bushings for the shifter, that should fix the reverse. It feels like I can't move the shifter back far enough to engage (I would describe it as a wet noodle right now, but my DD has a fairly stiff shifter).
Find and re-attache cover for fuel sender, it was missing, and replaced with aluminum duct tape.
Remove the poorly attached, and excessively dark tint for the rear window.
Find and re-attache rear wiper arm, the motor is there, but arm missing.
Remove and toss rear seat.
Replace trim above driver's window, it has sunk down, and the window catches on it, the car came with the replacement piece.
Get interior detailed, it still smells a bit musty, also a bit like gas as I've had the fuel sender out a few times.

After it's got a few more miles on it, change oil again.
When I have a shop to work on it, finish the AWS delete (drop rear subframe etc).
Modify shifter lever on the transmission to reduce throw front to back (I'll likely leave side to side stock).
Move battery to rear.

We're currently $4170Can ($3135USD) in.
I don't expect any more large expenses.