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Thread: Gravel Stealth Build

  1. #11
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    There may be an MFI relay problem. Also FYI the pump only runs when the engine is turning over. A la, the pump doesn't prime in stock form.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  2. #12
    I was aware of that.
    I suspect there's an issue with the slow speed resistor circuit.
    I will look into hot wiring it and upgrading the fuel regulator.

  3. #13
    Using this mod: http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumprelaybypass.htm
    It's now running fine.

    It looks like replacing the power steering pump would be a pain, but I'm not sure it'll be needed.
    the leak is bad enough that it may just be unable to build pressure. And the pump isn't wining.

    So I'll crawl under it tonight and replace any hard lines I need to on the power steering and brakes.

  4. #14
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    I was going to tell you to bypass the relay. Good job!

    Power steering isn't too terrible to replace I wouldn't think... but I've never done it in the car before. Engine has always been out if I messed with the pump.

    You got quite the loaded project it sounds like. You're making good headway though! How did it feel when it ran? Shift smooth? You get on it at all?
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

  5. #15
    I had bean planning a proper hotwire, but I heard the stock fuel regulator can't keep up.
    Oh, any thoughts on this one: http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=27478

    Definitely possible, I'm just used to working on a Subaru, I could do the power steering pump on it in 20min.
    On this thing I can barely see it.

    Bit hard to get into reverse, first and second seamed fine. No brakes, and the parking brake didn't do much, so didn't really give it.
    Other gears seamed fine, but I didn't let the clutch out as I was only doing 20.
    The shifter is really sloppy. I'm hoping new bushing will solve that.

    Edit:
    It does have a ton of lifter noise: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...006_121920.mp4
    But from what I can find that's not unexpected.
    I put in fresh 5w30 last night. I'll run it for a while then put in some new synthetic.
    Hopefully that cleanes it out a bit.
    Last edited by Blake.80486; 10-06-2016 at 03:27 PM.

  6. #16
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    Yeah, lifters will either always be noisy (1st gen lifters) or they will quiet up. The 3rd gen (99 style) lifters are considered a nice upgrade to help with that. In my experience on these cars, they generally like thicker oil, FWIW. I'm not telling you what to run, but I run 20W-50 for reference. My engine is also built intentionally a bit loose and for big power and high RPM, so take it all for what it's worth.

    On the regulator, you may just want to get another stock regulator... IDK what your plan is with the one linked unless you're gonna get a gauge as well. Seems overkill for a relatively stock vehicle... but I'm guilty of buying the nicer, unnecessary version as well hahaha

  7. #17
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    A stock hotwired pump should not be a problem for the stock FPR. It usually the bigger pumps that start causing issues, and even then, only when hotwired.

  8. #18
    Oh, I had no intention of leaving the rest of it stock.
    It already has a full exhaust, k&N filter, and a 6 speed (it's a '93).
    But the rest looks stock (so I'm hoping internally the engine is sound).
    Right now I just want to get it running, safety and e-test, and on the road.

    I'll be adding a fuel pressure gauge, it looks like I can just drill and tap the fuel rail (1/8" npt) and put a small one there.

    As for oil, sins I live in Canada and plan to drive it over the winter, 5w40 is likely a good option.
    The 5w30 was onsale and I figured I'd use it to clean some crap out.
    As it turned out, it dumped the old oil for me.

    Quick question, will the car drive fine if I disconnect the rear steering (to clarify the hydraulic lines from the front) but leave the rack in place?
    It wouldn't be driven much, and I'd be installing the aws eliminator kit as soon as I could.

    As for long term (engine wise), I'll be doing most of the supporting mods this winter, and new turbos in the spring.
    So it'll be getting a hot wired supra fuel pump, upgraded fuel regulator, and larger injectors.
    Also a full air to water intercooler. A pair of these: http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water...ler-p-219.html
    And this: http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-...er-p-1026.html
    I'm also seriously considering a full aftermarket ECU (a custom modified megasquirt).
    Instead of trying to trick the stock ecu into running that.
    the megasquirt would eliminate the MAF, and can be used as an electronic boost controller.

    Oh, and if the lifter don't quite down I'll get a set of '99 lifters to install.
    Last edited by Blake.80486; 10-06-2016 at 06:40 PM.

  9. #19
    Put some work into it tonight.
    Crimped off the power steering lines to the rear. All I managed was to move the leak further up.
    So I'm going to order the AWS delete kit from 3sx.
    Found the brake leak, but couldn't get at it. I'm going to go strait to an ABS delete.
    I'll get a non abs prop valve, put it near the master cylinder with hard lines between. Then SS lines strait to the front calipers, and to a convenient spot to tap I to the rear hard lines.

    I ran it around the lot a few times. Seamed to run well.
    Last edited by Blake.80486; 10-11-2016 at 03:06 PM.

  10. #20
    Ordered the non ABS prop valve, AWS delete kit, and shifter bushing from 3SX
    Brake pads, oil filter, and parking brake pads/hardware from Rock auto.
    Also the new brake lines from Techna Fit..
    Dropping the rotors off to be turned tonight.

    Unfortunately now I have to wait for parts.

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