It stripped You didn't have it in square.
You could try using a hammer and tapping the socket "hard" then trying again.
It stripped You didn't have it in square.
You could try using a hammer and tapping the socket "hard" then trying again.
[06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM
That's the word. Ok I'll try that tomorrow. I hope the head come out easy.
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Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Start by digging all the sludge out of the cavity first... If it only goes in halfway it'll strip every time.
If you don't have any luck and the internal hex is properly rooted, you can (often) hit a 17mm 12 point socket over the outside of the bolt, it will grab enough to loosen the bolt. As above, the key is making absolutely sure that the socket (or 10mm hex) is right down on the bolt.
Make sure you have the right hex insert.
Im running out of options.Socket tip won't work and putting the hex down and hammering like a mad man didn't work. The hex bit is intact no damage whatsoever. I almost got along with it and start hammering everywhere.
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Do bigger hex work?My small set only goes up to 10mm or do drill bits do the work? and if witch type/size?
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Ok, I went in the garage with a spare head bolt.
A T55 torx bit just strips out. A T60 will not fit at all. A 3/8" hex bit is much looser than the 10MM.
I don't know if it will work, but if I were you I would get a really good 10mm socket, like snap on or similar. If that still spins you may have to take a T60 torx and grind it down enough to where you can drive it in.

looks like lisle makes a kit for this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-62110-4...ds=lisle+62110
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