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Thread: putting on timing belt, have couple of questions

  1. #21
    Wrench Monkey Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) TwIzTeD_3kGt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve '92ES View Post
    That's exactly correct. If you've got all the slack out don't worry about the one tooth. Just be sure you're not pulling the belt TOO tight while you're putting it on. Pull it enough that the teeth on the belt fall naturally into the cogs, but don't reef on it.
    I doubt anyone can pull hard enough to make the belt fall into a cog it shouldn't be in, or to damage the belt. The only fear I would have from pulling too hard is moving the gears it's already set on. You have a bad experience with that or what?

    Sounds like you're routing it with the right amount of tension and leaving the slack in the correct area, but you were using the method for those who don't.
    Last edited by TwIzTeD_3kGt; 10-20-2010 at 01:02 AM.
    1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
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  2. #22
    Born To Build Feedback Score 0 Bluejediz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrets View Post
    Just make sure you crank it 3 times. Let it sit an hour, and crank it some more...First timing belts are fun . I did my first in Feburary on my vr4.
    I wish my first belt was on my stealth. Mine was on the GF's eclipse....talk about added pressure!!!! Not only would I have to deal with screwed up heads but with her aswell Glad it went ok lol
    -1995 Dodge Stealth RT/TT Blue Pearl "1 of 7"
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  3. #23
    | @/|/| +|2()|/| verified Feedback Score 6 (100%) terrets's Avatar
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    Thats good. Did she know it was your first one?!?

  4. #24
    Honda Eater Feedback Score 0 Mike-92RT's Avatar
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    the way you time your engine, is wrap it around the front camgears first, to the waterpump, to the rear camgears, through the tensioner idle pulley, to the oil pump, to the tensioner pulley. Make sure you pull it tight as you go, make sure theres no slack.

    Now for the marking on the oil pump. You don't line it up exactly to TDC, theres still slack in the timing belt. Have it set one tooth back. So when you tighten the tension on the belt, the oil pump will move, and you will be at TDC.

    The camgears CAN'T move during the tensioning process!

    When you tension the pulley, the 2 holes should be above the bolt roughly. Like this:


    When you're done tensioning it, check to see if you can slide the grenade pin in and out of the tensioner. Rotate the engine twice, check it again to see if its loose. Leave it for about 15min. Then check again to see if its loose. If it is, then you're golden!! If not, you have to do those steps all over again.
    Last edited by Mike-92RT; 10-20-2010 at 12:41 PM. Reason: more info

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    Wrench Monkey Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) TwIzTeD_3kGt's Avatar
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    Am I the only one besides the OP who does this so the crank doesn't move when tensioned? It works on all cars, and is less difficult than trying to guess where the tension is going to move the crank to. Just leave all the slack in the tensioner area, boom done.

    Just to add to the above post, if you have the tensioner tool and a torque wrench, you tension it to 7 ft/lbs and then tighten the pulley (which ends up looking like the picture if everything is new). Then you rotate the crank twice and see if the pin moves. If not, do it over because it's not tensioned properly.

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    Member verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) blindmist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    Am I the only one besides the OP who does this so the crank doesn't move when tensioned? It works on all cars, and is less difficult than trying to guess where the tension is going to move the crank to. Just leave all the slack in the tensioner area, boom done.

    Just to add to the above post, if you have the tensioner tool and a torque wrench, you tension it to 7 ft/lbs and then tighten the pulley (which ends up looking like the picture if everything is new). Then you rotate the crank twice and see if the pin moves. If not, do it over because it's not tensioned properly.

    This is what I have been trying to say!! Fuck moving the crank when tensioning the belt, that is too hard. Move the damn cam gears the way I say to do it. And guess what, if you start from the crank and go to the back cam and work the way I say to, you don't need any clips, no hassle, its just simple, and easily done. I should have made a video to prove to people how easy it was if you just install the belt "bakwards" from how the manual says to do it.

  7. #27
    Honda Eater Feedback Score 0 Mike-92RT's Avatar
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    My manual says to leave it a tooth back from TDC.

    If you do it right, it'll align at TDC when you tighten the belt to the correct tension. Worked for me 3 times, no problems, and its not even a big hassle.

  8. #28
    Member verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) blindmist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-92RT View Post
    My manual says to leave it a tooth back from TDC.

    If you do it right, it'll align at TDC when you tighten the belt to the correct tension. Worked for me 3 times, no problems, and its not even a big hassle.
    Where was your slack? From the front exhaust to the tensioner or the back exhaust to the crank? The crank isn't so easy to move when you are 8.5:1 fresh bore and hone brand new engine, let alone NA at 10.5:1 or whatever they are. It is much easier to have the slack on the front of the motor and let the cams roll back (counter clockwise). If you put the belt on starting from the crank going to the rear exhaust, the slack will be on the front of the motor, allowing you to let the cams roll.

    If you didn't let the cams move when applying tension, then your slack was on the rear of the motor, not the front, and the crank moved when you applied tension. This can be very difficult if you don't have cam lockers. The cams want to naturally roll back when they are in time, why not let them with the slack on the front of the motor?

    BTW, I am agreeing with you on one tooth back. As in the tooth to the right (clockwise) of the timing tooth.


    Let me put it like this.

    Here is how to time a 6G72. First things first. Set the crank one tooth back. As in the tooth to the right (clockwise) of the timing tooth.

    If you route the belt starting from the crank going to the rear cams, the slack should be from the front exhaust to the tensioner.
    This is what is important here. When you roll the tensioner to apply tension, the cams need to roll counter-clockwise and the crank SHOULD NOT move.

    If you route the belt starting from the crank, to the tensioner, to the front exhaust, then the slack should be on the rear exhaust to the crank.
    This is what is important here. When you roll the tensioner to apply tension, the crank needs to roll clockwise and the cams SHOULD NOT move.

    Then do two full rotations (clockwise) on the crank and set the crank in time, and the cams should be as well.

    But like I said, if you are having trouble getting the crank to move, just route it backwards so the cams move instead of the crank.
    Last edited by blindmist; 10-20-2010 at 05:45 PM.

  9. #29
    Wrench Monkey Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) TwIzTeD_3kGt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike-92RT View Post
    My manual says to leave it a tooth back from TDC.

    If you do it right, it'll align at TDC when you tighten the belt to the correct tension. Worked for me 3 times, no problems, and its not even a big hassle.
    The manual also says to jack up the engine by the oil pan. Either way works, but my way is easier imo.

  10. #30
    Honda Eater Feedback Score 0 Mike-92RT's Avatar
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    yea, i dont use the oil pan HAHAHAHA... i use the front support lol

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