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Thread: Renegade TechWorks is No Longer Selling the ECS Model 02 Controller

  1. #11
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    Are you talking about removing the small factory cover panel? If so then the way I currently have it mounted I believe would allow you to remove the two mounting screws and pull the controller if you ever needed to. I can verify that tonight when I have access to the car again.

    Here is a picture of basically how I have it mounted. I have actually shifted the controller down and to the left on the plate a little (so its flush with the left edge) giving more clearance for the connectors. I made this plate out of some acrylic I had laying around as its not meant to be a permanent solution, just for testing purposes, but it needs to be solidly mounted in this orientation due to the internal accelerometer.

  2. #12
    Monogamous Gigolo verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) 2fnloud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by striker2 View Post
    Are you talking about removing the small factory cover panel? If so then the way I currently have it mounted I believe would allow you to remove the two mounting screws and pull the controller if you ever needed to. I can verify that tonight when I have access to the car again.

    Here is a picture of basically how I have it mounted. I have actually shifted the controller down and to the left on the plate a little (so its flush with the left edge) giving more clearance for the connectors. I made this plate out of some acrylic I had laying around as its not meant to be a permanent solution, just for testing purposes, but it needs to be solidly mounted in this orientation due to the internal accelerometer.
    No, I want to mount it on the floor of the car right under my trim panel, from my stereo install. And if it needs to be vertical then mount it to the OEM trim, under my stereo install trim.

  3. #13
    I'm Marcus Feedback Score 0 duke3k's Avatar
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    No, I want to mount it on the floor of the car right under my trim panel, from my stereo install. And if it needs to be vertical then mount it to the OEM trim, under my stereo install trim.
    So - couple of comments on all of this:

    (1) To relocate the controller to a different location from the factory mount point - yes there are two ways to do this:
    (a) make an extension cable harness that extends the F12 & F13 connectors that plug into the controller either by cobling together connectors or by cutting the existing harness an extending the wires to the desired length.
    or
    (b) skip the existing F12 & F13 connectors altogether and treat this excercise as a retrofit and use the 24 pin Molex retrofit/expansion port to run new wires as follows: 4 wires to each strut, 3 wires to the console (Sport/Tour light + ECS switch), +12v & Ground.

    (2) as far as mounting the unit in a different orientation - by default I have the accelerometer configured to match the factory mounting orientation as Striker said - but it's easily changed in the code to other orientations with just a few line of code...since the code is open source - your good to go.

    //
    // Map Physical Accelerometer axis & sign to normalized variables
    //

    int ForwardAxis = 1; // default to Y axis
    int ForwardSign = 1; // default to Y+ +Acc = Acceleration

    int LeftRightAxis = 2; // default to Z axis
    int LeftRightSign = 1; // default to Z+ +Acc = Left Turn

    int UpDownAxis = 0; // default to X axis
    int UpDownSign = 1; // default to X+ +Acc = Up

    duke3k

    Favorite Car - A 1998 RED VR4 , pretty much stock except: Suspension: '94 ECS Struts Retrofit w/ Tein H-Techs controlled by TechWorks ECS Suspension Controller

    www.renegadetechworks.com Open Source 3000gt ECS Retrofit & Replacement Controllers

  4. #14
    Monogamous Gigolo verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) 2fnloud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    So - couple of comments on all of this:

    (1) To relocate the controller to a different location from the factory mount point - yes there are two ways to do this:
    (a) make an extension cable harness that extends the F12 & F13 connectors that plug into the controller either by cobling together connectors or by cutting the existing harness an extending the wires to the desired length.
    or
    (b) skip the existing F12 & F13 connectors altogether and treat this excercise as a retrofit and use the 24 pin Molex retrofit/expansion port to run new wires as follows: 4 wires to each strut, 3 wires to the console (Sport/Tour light + ECS switch), +12v & Ground.

    (2) as far as mounting the unit in a different orientation - by default I have the accelerometer configured to match the factory mounting orientation as Striker said - but it's easily changed in the code to other orientations with just a few line of code...since the code is open source - your good to go.

    //
    // Map Physical Accelerometer axis & sign to normalized variables
    //

    int ForwardAxis = 1; // default to Y axis
    int ForwardSign = 1; // default to Y+ +Acc = Acceleration

    int LeftRightAxis = 2; // default to Z axis
    int LeftRightSign = 1; // default to Z+ +Acc = Left Turn

    int UpDownAxis = 0; // default to X axis
    int UpDownSign = 1; // default to X+ +Acc = Up

    duke3k
    I could easily mount it to the outside of the plastic OEM trim to keep it vertical, I am just wanting to keep it easily accessible to replace the four fuses you have in the main board. I would just extend you harness that goes from the new controller to the OEM plug.

    If you look at the picture of my hatch, I would mounting under my access trim panel on the right, but not behind the OEM trim. I need to pull most of my stereo to remove that OEM panel, that would suck just to replace a fuse.

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    If you just wanted to mount it to the floor the stock harness might actually be long enough as it has some extra length. Then make the necessary changes to the code so it knows which axis to use for what.

    Edit: I'm guessing there is something blocking the factory access panel from being removed? Part of the support structure maybe?

    Edit2: Never mind, I found your build thread and the battery is obviously in the way but it does appear that the floor is in the way too.
    Last edited by striker2; 07-06-2016 at 12:01 PM.

  6. #16
    Monogamous Gigolo verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) 2fnloud's Avatar
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    Battery is no longer back there, I don't recall seeing an access panel on the passenger side for the ESC controller.

  7. #17
    Monogamous Gigolo verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) 2fnloud's Avatar
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    LOL I see the access panel:



    I should still be able to get the that now making all the other posts moot.

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    Well than in that case I will definitely double check this evening and make sure it can be removed just from that access panel.

  9. #19
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    So went out to the car last night and checked and with how I currently have it mounted both of the mounting screws are accessible just by removing the access cover.

  10. #20
    Monogamous Gigolo verified Feedback Score 8 (100%) 2fnloud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by striker2 View Post
    So went out to the car last night and checked and with how I currently have it mounted both of the mounting screws are accessible just by removing the access cover.
    Awesome, yeah I will be wanting one of these when available.

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