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Thread: Renegade TechWorks is No Longer Selling the ECS Model 02 Controller

  1. #1
    I'm Marcus
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    Renegade TechWorks is No Longer Selling the ECS Model 02 Controller

    The Short & Sweet of it is that I'm close to finalizing the new Hardware Design on the Gen 3 (Model 03) Electronically Controlled Suspension (ECS) System Controller and I don't wont to sell any more of the old design.

    The new Gen 3 will do everything the Gen 2 design did , but it will have add on options for an Auto Mode that will use an integrated 3 Axis accelerometer and totally new software for an Auto Mode - like the original OEM system had.

    See this video update for more info:


    Like the original controller I will open source the entire design - both the hardware and software and here's some work deliverables in that regard:

    Schematic of the new design - Top Half:
    RenegadeTechWorks :: Topic: TechWorks ECS M03 PCB Board Design (1/1)

    Schematic of the new design - Bottom Half:
    RenegadeTechWorks :: Topic: TechWorks ECS M03 PCB Board Design (1/1)

    PDF File of the new Design:
    http://renegadetechworks.com/media/k...0Schematic.pdf


    Cheers,
    duke3k

    Favorite Car - A 1998 RED VR4 , pretty much stock except: Suspension: '94 ECS Struts Retrofit w/ Tein H-Techs controlled by TechWorks ECS Suspension Controller

    www.renegadetechworks.com Open Source 3000gt ECS Retrofit & Replacement Controllers

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  3. #2
    I'm Marcus
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    TechWorks ECS M03 Accceration Test Data

    Acceleration data logged from a 12 second run of Striker3's '93 VR4.
    Logging was done using one axis of the integrated 3 axis Accelerometer in the M03 TechWorks Controller. The data was logged via the data port to an external data logging MicoSD card.




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    I will be waiting for one of these patiently.
    1993 Stealth RT/TT- 3sx Y Pipe/Race Pipe/Radiator, CX Racing downpipe, Ninja Performance pre turbo pipes, Turbo XS Type H Hybrid BPV, K&N cali legal cone intake, Short shifter not sure which one, BlackStealth LCDBC, Autometer carbon fiber boost guage,100psi aftermarket oil pressure gauge hooked up to LCDBC, Mishimoto sandwich plate, Innovative LC2 pre cat delete's, future mods, rear camber arms, DR 650s, Ksport coilovers, big bore lifters. need to install my ninja performance solid tensioner an gates blue carbon fiber timing belt,

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    So there have been a few updates to this. There is now a beta version that is being tested on my car. The following was originally posted on the other site but Im cross posting it here with duke3k's permission. This includes some info on the new version of the controller along with some of my initial impressions from my first drive with it installed.

    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    Techworks ECS M03 Update:


    So made quite a bit of progress on the Gen3 and have a beta version of the software running on a near production version of the latest Hardware PCB design. We (Striker3 & I ) installed a test beta unit in his VR4. I''ll ask him to cross post his feedback here in case your interested.


    In the post immediately after this one - I'm going to post pages of the quick start manual that describes how the controller works now including how auto mode was implemented.




    duke3k

    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    Techworks ECS M03 Update:


    Here's the manual












    Quote Originally Posted by striker3 View Post
    Initial impressions are good in auto mode. For some reason it kept changing the right side shocks to medium during bumps, even when just cruising down the highway, but the left side almost never did. I'm thinking raising the threshold for switching to medium a tiny bit along with maybe finding a way to make sure the controller is mounted perfectly vertically will help. Other than that it did everything perfectly. Starting off from a light at normal throttle would change the rear shocks to medium. Standard braking coming up to a stop light, the front struts changed to medium and slightly harder braking they would go to hard mode. Generic, easy cornering put the outside struts to medium and harder cornering they went to hard nicely. Right now the beta controller is mounted to the stock controller using some velcro and Marcus has stated that perhaps that is allowing the new controller to move around a bit during bumps, especially with the Tein S-tech springs. So i'm thinking that perhaps tomorrow morning I will spend the time to remove the stock unit and mount the new controller in the stock location and see if that makes any difference before we go doing any software changes.

    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    I haven't published the new Gen03 code yet, but will be soon.




    [edit] - ok here's the link to the new code....have fun.


    http://renegadetechworks.com/opensou...ecs-software-2


    duke3k

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    There will be Blood! verified
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    - So with Arduino IDE, and a FTDI cable we can flash our existing now? (With some command research needed for the noob)

    - What is necessary to wire in the led's? (Run wire, or use existing?)(Understand jumper is needed changed depending on led type, and switch type)

    - If the first question is negative, what's the coin needed?

    - If the first question is positive, will there be a how to on the connecting of the led?

    Bad Ass Sir!

    Edit: I am referring to my oem controller, and now realize that flashing it may not be an option after watching the vid again. So back to when, and how much
    Last edited by CoopKill; 06-27-2016 at 01:42 AM.

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  9. #6
    I'm Marcus
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    some answers - and these only apply to the techworks controller - you cant flash the OEM controller or add on LEDs to it.

    - So with Arduino IDE, and a FTDI cable we can flash our existing now? (With some command research needed for the noob)

    Answer: correct with the using the techworks opensource software and the arduino IDE & a 15$ ftdi cable you can update the firmware in the techworks controller. Once you set up the arduino IDE and required libraries is pretty easy.

    - What is necessary to wire in the led's? (Run wire, or use existing?)(Understand jumper is needed changed depending on led type, and switch type)

    Answer: to wire in the leds you need to run three wires (+5v, GND, Data) from the expansion/adapter port on the techworks controller to where you want to mount them in the cockpit.


    - If the first question is negative, what's the coin needed?

    Answer: No coin needed - the software is open source - your only paying for the controller / Leds / rotary switch.

    - If the first question is positive, will there be a how to on the connecting of the led?

    Answer: installing the LEDs is documented in the installation manual - it's easy. Just three wires.


    - How Much?

    Answer:
    - Bare Bones Manual Controller (no accelerometer, no auto mode no integrated leds) - $199
    - Full Controller (integrated accelerometer, with auto mode and integrated leds) - $250
    - Add on remote mount LEDS ( can be used with either bare bones or full controller) - $40
    - Add on remote mount Rotary Selection Switch (cannot be used in conjunction w/ factory ECS switch) - $40

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  11. #7
    I'm Marcus
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    Techworks ECS M03 Auto Mode Demo


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  13. #8
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    Can this be used without the rotary switch or LED's connected? Like in my 94, just replace your controller with the OEM controller and be done?
    Last edited by 2fnloud; 07-06-2016 at 07:35 AM.

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    Yes it can be used as just a straight replacement. I dont have the rotary switch connected and the LEDs are mostly there to show me what the struts are doing in auto mode so I can give feedback and adjustments can be made to the code as necessary. Without the LEDs you wont be able to see which struts and when the controller switches them to medium or hard automatically but thats not really necessary. Also there is at least the option to have the LEDs built into the case (or perhaps they will all come with the LEDs in the case) which can be used for diagnostic purposes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by striker2 View Post
    Yes it can be used as just a straight replacement. I dont have the rotary switch connected and the LEDs are mostly there to show me what the struts are doing in auto mode so I can give feedback and adjustments can be made to the code as necessary. Without the LEDs you wont be able to see which struts and when the controller switches them to medium or hard automatically but thats not really necessary. Also there is at least the option to have the LEDs built into the case (or perhaps they will all come with the LEDs in the case) which can be used for diagnostic purposes.
    Kinda guessed that after watching the video I could even mount the LED's in the trim panel from my stereo install on the right



    Last question would be can an extension harness be made so I do not have to store the new controller in the OEM location, with fuses in it, I would rather have it accessible buy just removing the trim panel.

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