Broken Clutch Pedal Assembly support bracket

[MaelstromOC]

Alright guys, I was pulling into a friend's driveway the other day, pushed my clutch in and heard a loud snap. The clutch is now halfway to the floor at its highest point, if that.

I got onto the floorboard to check the clutch pedal and pushrod out and found this metal bracket has snapped. Any insight as to what caused this would be appreciated. I've been told it was possibly a heavy clutch. I don't know what type of clutch is in the car as I've never had to replace it since buying it around two years ago.

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[DocWalt]

Make sure your clutch booster works (the black cylinder that the broken bracket bolts to) but otherwise probably just fatigue or an overly heavy clutch.

[MaelstromOC]

Pretty sure it doesn't as the previous owner apparently "crimped" the hard line on the firewall that runs to it I didn't know something like that could cause that bracket to snap though.

[DocWalt]

I wouldn't say it's normal for the bracket to snap, but fatigue failure can certainly set in after years of a stiff clutch and no assist making the pedal force weaker. The location of the booster is well engineered, takes the load off of the pedal and pedal bracket.

[MaelstromOC]

Thank you for the input Doc. I think I'll try to find a hard line to swap and get the booster back. It never really bothered me, plus I liked the feel of the clutch honestly, but I don't want to be replacing that bracket again just because of that. Plus, I'm sure my left leg will thank me haha.

I don't know why someone would cut the hardline on the firewall and crimp it the way that they did. It's literally cut right before the bend near the brake booster that heads south down the firewall.

[DocWalt]

Maybe they wanted better clutch feel? I've driven cars with or without the booster and removes a little bit of feel but it makes the pedal a lot easier to use

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Can you post a pic of your crimped line? I removed most of the line from behind the engine as well, but my booster still works because I'm still feeding it. The one line just goes to the vacuum tank and therefore really does nothing. The spec 4+ I have with the booster working is lighter than the one in my 4 banger ranger. hard to get used to after using rps and act clutches for years.

[MaelstromOC]

I'll have to go get a better picture of it. I think I may have been mistaken about which line is crimped off though. Maybe you guys can help me out here. I hate to seem like I don't know what I'm talking about, but I'm trying to learn!

Here's a picture of the crimped hard line. Unfortunately, it makes it difficult for me to tell which line it is on the firewall. I'll have to return to my buddy's house and get another picture, but comparing it to the clutch vacuum booster hoses diagram, I'm unsure.



Another picture showing the actual booster hose I believe (top-most hardline.) Pretty sure I was completely mistaken, but I'm looking for a diagram of the hard lines right now because I'd still like to know what it was.

[DocWalt]

Pretty sure that's the clutch vacuum line that runs over to the vacuum reservoir. It should still work without that line... But it looks like the vacuum line off of the intake manifold is capped off for some reason. That line has a check valve i it, so make sure that's still there if you go to hook up that line.

[Hans@GZP]

They will snap there if the bolt that goes through the top of the clutch pedal assembly is no long there. It's a bolt that goes straight up. If it's not there, it puts stress on the bottom of the clutch pedal assembly.