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Thread: "Just buy a VR4" build thread.

  1. #1
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    "Just buy a VR4" build thread.

    As some of you know I have done a TT conversion to my white car. That was followed by an AWD conversion, and then later a 3.5L swap. One of the most asked questions I see on the forum (and especially FB pages) is "how hard is it to TT/AWD convert these cars?" Usually the answers range from "Pain in the ass, if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't attempt it", "you can do if you really believe you want to", or "Just buy a VR4".

    So this is my thread about my build that is already beginning as a TT car. I originally picked it up with bent valves and intentions of just fixing and flipping it. I've since decided I'd like to do a mild build with it. Something that I can DD if I want but still makes enough power to dispatch a modern Camry. Nothing crazy like powder coating, just going to use spray paint, mostly. Exterior will be painted correctly of course.

    This particular car presents its own set of challenges. It has sat for about 15 years. The previous owner put it up on blocks, and wrapped it up under a tarp under his carport behind his garage. It has a fair amount of surface rust underneath, and by "fair amount" I mean it is completely surface rust. I'm actually somewhat looking for a cleaner shell to use, but this is what I have, so I'm going to try to make the best of it. I'm also trying to keep the budget (without paint) around ~6k.

    It's a green (for now) 92 RT/TT with 109k, charcoal interior, no sunroof.

    Build plans:
    Engine:
    15g turbos
    FIC 650s
    Jackhammer gears
    fuel loop
    Maft (blow through)
    Wally 450 (e85)
    e85
    xtd stage 2 clutch
    SS downpipe
    Gutted rear precat
    ??Exhaust?? – undecided
    Ninja T-Case brace

    Exterior:
    B5 Blue
    Engine bay painted black
    Black Kazera wheels
    Retrospec lip and side splitters
    2g stealth rear bumper
    ??wing?? - undecided

    Suspension.
    Lowering springs with stock ECS struts
    AWS delete
    Rear sway bar
    Adjustable upper ctrl arms
    Two piece steel/AL driveshaft
    ABS delete

    The day I brought it home:



    The stock wheels and tires didn't hold air, and since I was still planning on selling it I picked up some super light WEDS Sport wheels.



    Started by pulling the heads to assess damage.



    Lots of cleaning and painting parts.



    Got the 15gs from TimP (Boostmore) and adjusted the wastegates.



    New hoses, plugs, wires, timing belt, tensioner, etc, etc, etc





    Last edited by Uniuno; 01-27-2016 at 03:00 PM.

    95 Base 3k: 6G74/TT/AWD conversion

  2. #2
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    This brings us up to current day. Over the weekend I (with help of a friend) dropped both front and rear subframes out of the car. I plan on de-rusting everything, and then painting all the separate pieces and undercoating the shell.
    Here are the “before” pictures.










    Most everything has come apart pretty well with use of Aerokroil.

    Active exhaust was locked up tight as expected. The brake hardware was surprisingly clean and slid nicely.

  3. #3
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    Subframes out.


    The only real worrisome part rust-wise is in this picture. For the most part it’s all just on the surface, no holes or anything, pinch welds are still solid. But the part that the rear seat belt mounts to is fairly rotten. I’ll make a decision as what to do to it when I get it cleaned up. Worst case is I’ll have to cut that out of my parts car and weld it into this one. It is what it is.


    Flakey flakey

    I don’t think there was a single mounting bracket that didn’t twist off when I tried to remove the lines for the rear steering system. The metal underneath seems solid though.


    The rubber mounts actually seem to be in decent shape. I’m going to window weld them all and hope for the best.


    That’s all I have for now. I’m going to try to get it all cleaned up and shot with some paint and maybe even start getting it put back together over Christmas break.

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    Nice thread!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uniuno View Post
    The rubber mounts actually seem to be in decent shape. I’m going to window weld them all and hope for the best.
    That’s all I have for now. I’m going to try to get it all cleaned up and shot with some paint and maybe even start getting it put back together over Christmas break.
    Started down that process myself, but without the benefit of a lift. Used Masterseries coating, which is nice and thick but can easily make a mess of bolt holes (although can be said for most undercoating products as well.) One thing I will say is that the rear subframe bushings, are reasonably affordable if you're gonna go that route, but honestly they don't see much load and don't really go bad. I'd be more concerned with the bushings and ball joints in the rear arms than the rear subframe to body bushings.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

  6. #6
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    I bought a whole case of permatex rubberized undercoating when I did the white car and have a lot left over. I'll use that on the shell and Rust Tough spray paint on all the rest of it. I wanted an aluminum color for the aluminum parts so I used Aluminum Rust tough on the thermostat housing and oil feed and return lines. Unfortunately it's more like a chrome paint and it smelled awful. The silver on the valve covers and turbo heat shields was brake caliper paint. I like it a lot more, so I'll probably use that in more places.

    I agree, I actually have 3/4 of a spare set of new subframe bushings in a box on the shelf. I installed one on my white car, they weren't really in bad shape but I got a good deal on them so "while I was in there.." The one I changed was such a pain I didn't want to do the other three. Especially because as you say, they don't see much load. I'm more concerned with the rubber washer cap things that go between the body and the subframe itself.

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    Cool start. sub'd

  8. #8
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    Engine looks awesome. Great work. Most don't pull off color change on parts while keeping a stock'ish look.
    Last edited by familyMAN; 12-17-2015 at 09:28 AM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uniuno View Post
    Especially because as you say, they don't see much load. I'm more concerned with the rubber washer cap things that go between the body and the subframe itself.
    Are yours cracking and worn?

    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    Engine looks awesome. Great work. Most don't pull off color change on parts without keeping a stock'ish look.
    I love how clean and OE-ish it looks, very classy (even if it is green )

  10. #10
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergechronos View Post
    Are yours cracking and worn?



    I love how clean and OE-ish it looks, very classy (even if it is green )
    They have pretty much fallen apart, I'll grab some pictures tonight.

    It won't be green much longer!

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