MIVEC build

[mjannusch]

I'm not envious of what its going to take to route the exhaust from the turbo out under the car. Yikes.

Good luck getting it going though, it'll be cool if you can make it work.

[dpartinvr4]

I'm not envious of what its going to take to route the exhaust from the turbo out under the car. Yikes.

Good luck getting it going though, it'll be cool if you can make it work.

Itll tuck under the header and go out where the stock rear precat went through

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[dpartinvr4]

I'm going to have everything coated in swaintech white lightning

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[murphys_law]

Why not go with a real engine management solution if you are going all out on the engine? I would want the adjustability and safety that they have over a stock modified ECU. Not to mention they are adaptable to whatever sensors and controls you need.

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[dpartinvr4]

I've spoken to Runnel "Bag-O-Chips" about this, And he is in agreeance the chrome ecu will be More than capable of the job. Besides the mivec control "which is just pwm controlled with a two second 12v activation, so shouldn't be hard to get working", using chrome with all the stock vr4 sensors will be plenty capable of running this setup safely

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[murphys_law]

I'll be interested to see how it turns out! Looks like it will be a stout setup.

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[dpartinvr4]

I'm working on compiling all the pictures And important facts/mods/parts from his build on the other site, and will try my best to keep it going over here.

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[CoopKill]

Giggity!

[dpartinvr4]

First and foremost... The front engine mount, I plan on utilizing as many factory locations whether adding or fabricating brackets as needed. Since the Transmission on mounts one way to the chassis I won't go into any detail on that. But The OEM bracket that bolts to the 72 block does fit onto the 75 block with some creativity. That takes care of that issue.



As you can see in the next pic, the 75 motor mountbracket comes about as close as getting the hot chick in Chem class' phone number... needless to say you're gonna have to get crafty to get her digits.


The Valve coves are great!, they can be swapped back and forth. That should'nt need much explanation, But attention must be given to the timing marks on the front (red) valve cover. Once you swap them, the mark will be on the transmission side. The rear head timing mark is a notch on the stamped metal sheild behind the cam gear cover. Also the lower intake manifoldneeds to be flipped 180* The boss that is used to bolt the gusset over the water pumpwill need to be trimmed 1/2" to clear.


The 75 Mivec has a returnless fuel system utilizing pulswidth modulation of the fuel pump to regulate rail pressure. Well...my Stealth isn't that smart even with AEM. So without diving into the wallet just yet I took apart the 75 fuel railsto convert it to a return style. Although the shape is odd and it looks very restrictive, The inside cross section measures out to just a C-hair less than 1/2"! Not bad at all! The injector bosses on the other hand are lacking...

At a measely 1/4" the openings had to be bored out. They may have been sufficient for the 330cc stock injectors and NA but not enough for 1150's and Boost. I also added -6AN fittings to the ends to make it a 2 piece fuel rail with a detachable fuel loop to aid in disassembly and user friendliness. I'll add more pics as I go along.



The top is 100% stock 75mivec, the bottom is the 180* flipped and being modded. Notice the stock rail is all 1 peice and stamped/extruded/brazed steel. the bottom rails will be modular.


And for today's updates we tackle the Returnlessfuel rail... True to the "more Fab, Less Parts motto" I converted the OEM mivec fuel rail to a return style setup. It doesn't really need much explaining.

DIY fuel loop -6AN


Feed and Return also -6AN




Here's a few more updates. A majority of the important bits have been attached and some creative fabrication is clearly needed. Again I'm doing this swap a certain way to show members that the 3.8 mivec can be physically installed with some creativity. Wait until you see what I have in store for the exhaust manifolds... But this thread is worthless with out pics so...

Motor mount, Alternator, Belt tensioner are on. There are a lot of gaps but those will be addressed as necessary. Note all of the bracketry is OE 1G 6G72 equipment. I'll address the Timing beltidler pulley and Power Steeringbracketry in my next post.


1G A/C bracket... 3 of 4 holes line right up. The 4th is... missing a boss. 3 out of 4 is good enough for me.


The Belt tensioner is just a hair on the short side, nothing a stack of washers or machined spacer can't fix.


And the Alternator top bracket just isn't gonna jive, Making a new one isn't an issue.



As promised, Here is the solution for the powersteering pump mounting and Timing beltIdler pully. It is basically a portion of each part from the 75M and the 72, The Idler pulley mount on the 72 places the pulley too far away resulting in a slacked timing belteven with the tensioner pulley and tensioner at full extension... we can't have that at all.

So the Idler pulley mount portion of the 75M's Accesory belt tensioner had to be modified and the 72's Idler pulley bracket basically became a regular bracket so the Power steeringbracket had something to bolt on to.

[dpartinvr4]

Also for the 72 Accessory belt we had to get creative regarding the Gap between in and the Timing belttensioner... Simple! Spare A/C compressor bolt to the rescue. It's the same grade, same thread pitch and correct length! Now to make up for the gap.





So I cut off the section that is pointed towards the firewall... because its not needed and made a template to transfer over to a piece of Aluminium (lol) plate. Need less to say it will be welded on to create a block off plate.


This Little Gem will be the part that allows the 72 filler neck/rad cap to work with the 75 parts. It's part of the peice I cut off the 75thermostat housing. I threw it in the lathe and turned it down enough for a .002" interference fit into the filler neck.




If you look closely, The piece needs to be radiused to follow the contour of the coolant housing. Once the radius has been done, the hole can be cut out.


In order for the filler neck to fit correctly without obstruction to coolant flow the 75 lower plenum must be trimmed out... nothing a bandsaw and Bridgeport can't handle. The area to be trimmed is marked in Green cross hatching. The green line on the coolant housing shows the location of the dividing wall between the thermostat and coolant passage to the heads, hence the reason for radiusing the adapter/extension to utilize as much area without having to dig into where the separation is.


Here is the upper plenum and lower bolted together. If you note the green cross hatches, you will see the threaded hole is of no use what so ever and is null and void to the sealing characteristics of the gasket and two mating surfaces.




The filler neck was the first to get brazed. It looks like turd since its been a while since the last time I brazed anything. IIRC the last time I brazed aluminum was a pinhole leak on an 8 year old Fluidyne radiatorfor a 68 Camaro... 8 years ago...



You guys can now see the Picaso skills at drawing on parts.

The Block-Off plate was way easier after I got my mojo back.





Updates are as follows, I already talked about the process so I won't bore you with them again.





Coolant housing 95% done. Now to add Fittings for the Heat hoses, TB coolant, and Turbo coolant