If you are careful you should be able to get it apart. If you have to move the slider a little just push the outer syncro in the opposite direction and the springs/balls can't come out.
Even if it does it's really not hard to put back.

If you are careful you should be able to get it apart. If you have to move the slider a little just push the outer syncro in the opposite direction and the springs/balls can't come out.
Even if it does it's really not hard to put back.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
A couple of careful mins with a 6-32 tap on the spring pin, a little application of the slide hammer and the pin came right out. Rail and fork followed.
Hopefully this picture will be clearer.
I measured the synchro sleeve/slider groove at about 5.0mm and the fork where it contacts the slider at 3.5mm. Something ate it up that I'll have to check for when I reinstall the trans, could have been the PO's driving or maybe cable adjustment. The trans really didn't crunch shifting. It came out do to discovering the output shaft was toast in the process of replacing a CV boot throwing grease.
I'm sure you all have had what seems to be a simple repair turn into a restoration project as you dig into it.
IMG_20150730_145116944.jpgIMG_20150730_145022057.jpg
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