Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 56

Thread: Clutch fork loose???

  1. #21
    The one. The only. verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    August 28, 2002

    Location
    SWPA
    Posts
    4,042
    Thanks
    182
    Thanked 699 Times in 529 Posts
    It might not hurt to unbolt the pressure plate as well and check the clutch disk and springs.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  2. #22
    Honda Eater
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    April 2007

    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    334
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post
    It's got a few scratches on the outer surface from the broken piece. But it looks fine. I'm not starting the car until I find out my problem and it's fixed.

  3. #23
    Forum User
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Posts
    622
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
    Buy a new fprk as well, not worth getting stranded if it fails while you're in the middle of nowhere...
    GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
    TD04-16g`s, Maf-t. 13g`s 12.4@115mph / 16g`s 12.5@117mph.

  4. #24
    Honda Eater
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    April 2007

    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    334
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post
    Last edited by Mike-92RT; 08-08-2015 at 07:38 PM.

  5. #25
    Honda Eater
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    April 2007

    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    334
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post
    Ok so I put everything back together carefully. Clutch fork has a little play when the fork is closest to the engine which I guess is normal, and its hard to move it the other direction a little past half way of the inspection hole. Pedal still sticks to the floor. I'm gonna try and bleed the system again and if that doesn't work maybe a new slave cylinder?

  6. #26
    Man vs 3/S verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2003

    Location
    Kingston, WA
    Posts
    1,501
    Thanks
    124
    Thanked 171 Times in 112 Posts
    Your master leaks internally.
    93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
    98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13

    3SNG15 Best overall




    "I explode 1 piece rotors" -- ABM --
    Runs 12's (12.98's!!!!!!)
    My Garage

  7. #27
    Honda Eater
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    April 2007

    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    334
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post
    My master is brand new

  8. #28
    The one. The only. verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    August 28, 2002

    Location
    SWPA
    Posts
    4,042
    Thanks
    182
    Thanked 699 Times in 529 Posts
    Probably a good idea to delete that damper that I talked about, then bleed, bleed, and bleed some more. After that adjust the pedal free play

  9. #29
    Honda Eater
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    April 2007

    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    334
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post
    Can you take a picture of your damper delete setup?

  10. #30
    The one. The only. verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    August 28, 2002

    Location
    SWPA
    Posts
    4,042
    Thanks
    182
    Thanked 699 Times in 529 Posts
    My engine bay is empty right now. LOL

    Look at the firewall where the hardline runs from the clutch master. There is a bracket on the firewall where another line hooks to it.

    My memory is fuzzy at this point, because it has been so long since I deleted my damper, but I believe at that bracket is a soft line with female threads on both sides, then it goes back to a hardline that hooks to the damper. Then it goes from the damper to the slave.

    What I did is use the double female hose, then made my own short hard line to get to the slave straight off the firewall. What I have learned in the teardown of my car is you could possibly use a stock brake soft line. That would eliminate the need of an additional connection.

    So basically, stock hardline to the connector bracket on the firewall, a stock front brake hose hook to that and hook straight to the slave.

    Elimination of the damper makes bleeding SO MUCH EASIER. It also greatly improves pedal feel.

    Oh, I almost forgot, there is one more option. These guys haven't posted here in awhile, but they had a good reputation while they were around.

    STM: STM STAINLESS CLUTCHLINE | MASTER TO SLAVE CYLINDER | 3000GT & STEALTH | STM-3S-MASTER

    Its listed for a TT, but I am fairly sure it will also work for a FWD as well.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering