It might not hurt to unbolt the pressure plate as well and check the clutch disk and springs.
It might not hurt to unbolt the pressure plate as well and check the clutch disk and springs.
[06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM
It's got a few scratches on the outer surface from the broken piece. But it looks fine. I'm not starting the car until I find out my problem and it's fixed.
Buy a new fprk as well, not worth getting stranded if it fails while you're in the middle of nowhere...
GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
TD04-16g`s, Maf-t. 13g`s 12.4@115mph / 16g`s 12.5@117mph.
Last edited by Mike-92RT; 08-08-2015 at 07:38 PM.
Ok so I put everything back together carefully. Clutch fork has a little play when the fork is closest to the engine which I guess is normal, and its hard to move it the other direction a little past half way of the inspection hole. Pedal still sticks to the floor. I'm gonna try and bleed the system again and if that doesn't work maybe a new slave cylinder?
Your master leaks internally.
93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13
3SNG15 Best overall
"I explode 1 piece rotors" -- ABM --
Runs 12's (12.98's!!!!!!)
My Garage
My master is brand new
Probably a good idea to delete that damper that I talked about, then bleed, bleed, and bleed some more. After that adjust the pedal free play
Can you take a picture of your damper delete setup?
My engine bay is empty right now. LOL
Look at the firewall where the hardline runs from the clutch master. There is a bracket on the firewall where another line hooks to it.
My memory is fuzzy at this point, because it has been so long since I deleted my damper, but I believe at that bracket is a soft line with female threads on both sides, then it goes back to a hardline that hooks to the damper. Then it goes from the damper to the slave.
What I did is use the double female hose, then made my own short hard line to get to the slave straight off the firewall. What I have learned in the teardown of my car is you could possibly use a stock brake soft line. That would eliminate the need of an additional connection.
So basically, stock hardline to the connector bracket on the firewall, a stock front brake hose hook to that and hook straight to the slave.
Elimination of the damper makes bleeding SO MUCH EASIER. It also greatly improves pedal feel.
Oh, I almost forgot, there is one more option. These guys haven't posted here in awhile, but they had a good reputation while they were around.
STM: STM STAINLESS CLUTCHLINE | MASTER TO SLAVE CYLINDER | 3000GT & STEALTH | STM-3S-MASTER
Its listed for a TT, but I am fairly sure it will also work for a FWD as well.
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