Widebody VR4 Build

[futurevr4man]

Who sold you that crap?

FreddyKreuger I think his name is. He claims to not have seen it all messed up. He refunded me the machine shop costs to straighten and reweld the manifolds, and offered to refund the turbos too, but I'm ok with the 3076's. All in all, I have a little under $2000 into the T3 setup and got my money out of the TD05 setup, so not bad.

you can thank me for that progress

Lol you were a factor


The 3076's are 500+ hp turbos whereas the DR1000's are 450hp turbos at best. Record is 814AWHP at 35psi on them...

I'm hoping to pump out 800 from these, so at least I shouldn't have to push everything to the very limit in order to do it. I plan to keep timing pretty conservative and let the turbos do the work

[j2k4]

You'd better do a genealogical work-up on those turbos.

Studies have shown that, while they can make a lot of power, many of them underachieve, preferring to sit around, snack, and play videos.

[futurevr4man]

So I tried to start it this weekend. Ran into a few snags but had a few victories.

Got the intercooler piping finished with the mock up. Nothing is really done (not to my standards anyhow) but it's together. Battery in, fuel hooked up, etc. etc. Still need to finish my preturbo intake pipes (tomorrow probably).



So I went to crank it in order to build oil pressure and when I cranked it over the first time I saw some smoke come up from the front. Super concerning obviously. I didn't have any plug in it, so should spin no sweat... no compression. Well, turns out the engine wasn't wanting to turn and the smoke I saw was the starter.

Obviously concerned, I chatted with the some friends and one of them convinced me the clutch was probably bound up. I've never had that happen in the 5 or 6 times I've gone through this process... but this is the first dual clutch I've ever messed with. So bled the clutch and it spun over just fine... built oil pressure to the 3rd tick.

So that brings me to starting it. I had to flash on the new tune and dumbass me didn't have the MFI relay plugged in (for oil pressure cranking) and didn't plug it in afterward. So I chased my tail for like 3 hours trying to figure out why my tactrix wasn't getting battery power. Finally came to the conclusion I was an idiot. No surprise.

Flashed on new tune, no problem. Got EvoScan connected to start logging, no problem. Got my big girl panties on and hit it... nothing. No firing. I had my neighbor at the ready with a fire extinguisher haha. Concluded I wasn't getting fuel (couldn't hear the pumps turn on). Found out I had the trigger wire in the wrong spot after double checking everything else. So I tried again and found out my fuel line (the line itself) is leaking. I have new e85 safe line coming now, and I plan to redo the whole thing. I can't be 100% positive that the old line was e85 safe... I made it too long ago.

So since I was stuck, I decided to have a Sunday funday. Got it on all 4's, started test fitting some stuff. Front has like zero camber. You can see the rears between the two pic... second one has a 15mm spacer on the rears. It should look good once it's all aligned and put together. It's all just laying on the body right now, nothing is lined up or anything, so take it with a grain of salt. I'm still excited about it.





Wheels are 18x10 +20 P45R2's with 295/35/18 PSS's

[B-Man]

Never thought I'd see the day....

[DocWalt]

It has a bumper!

[futurevr4man]

The bumper is just sitting on there lol. I need brackets to actually mount it, and things need to shift around a bit. But yeah, it's right there!

Doc, can you give me some insight on how I should get it aligned? I understand what all the individual adjustments do, but I'm not sure where to set them all from the beginning. How much camber, toe, etc? I'll take it somewhere that will set it to what I tell them.

[DocWalt]

Go for -2 camber up front, -1.5 or so rear. I'd do a tiny bit of front toe-out and a tiny bit of total toe-in for the rear, maybe 0.1 OUT up front and 0.1 IN rear?

As you add front camber you need to add a little bit of toe-out to correct for the self-steering effect of the camber and get better tire wear and more reactive steering.

[futurevr4man]

Noted, thanks!!

[DocWalt]

If you plan on driving this primarily on the street without hitting up a ton of twisties or the light track/autocross use here and there, you'd be best to take half a degree out of the camber measurements only for tire wear reasons. I know you like twisties, but this will be a LOT of car for that, so...

[futurevr4man]

Bah! I ran it at -2* or so previously and it was fine!!