Need Info : Rod Bearing + Crankshaft Bearing

[twin-turbo]

Hi,

I rebuilt my engine completly, the Bearings is not bad... but i prefer to change the Rod Bearing and Crankshaft Bearing because the engine is OUT...

So, my 3000gt is an European version LHD , twin-turbo, manual 6 gearbox, year 02/2000.

Could you tell me what Rod Bearing Color i need for to replace this one, and whats Cranckshaft Bearing color too ????


I have some informations on the ROD :

1° : 0 below the ROD, Mark on the left side on the ROD => B '
2° : 0 below the ROD, Mark on the left side on the ROD => B :
3° : 0 below the ROD, Mark on the left side on the ROD => B '
4° : 0 below the ROD, Mark on the left side on the ROD => B '
5° : 0 below the ROD, Mark on the left side on the ROD => B
6° : 0 below the ROD, Mark on the left side on the ROD => B:


This informations on the Rod Bearing : D9K

And i take some picture on the Block engine.

thank's for the experts

pictures :

[1995vr4]

If I were you I would have the crank measured and inspected and they should be able to tell you if it has been turned or not. From there you will know what size bearings to go with. I prefer clevite. I believe the 0 on the rod cap is just to show direction. The 0 will go t words the timing belt side of the motor when re installing the pistons

[jras312]

If I were you I would have the crank measured and inspected and they should be able to tell you if it has been turned or not. From there you will know what size bearings to go with.

Solid advice. The marks on the block are for if you are buying select fit bearings from mitsu. Just get the crank checked out and they should be able to tell you if you need standard bearings or oversized.

I believe the 0 on the rod cap is just to show direction. The 0 will go t words the timing belt side of the motor when re installing the pistons

Unless my block was previously torn down and re-installed incorrectly, this is not true. The 0 on the rod caps face the trans side of the engine. They are opposite of the arrows on the pistons, those arrows point toward the timing side (front).

[1995vr4]

Yes I would double check on that I'm not completely sure. You should be able to figure it out though as the piston also has a front facing arrow and the cap will only go on one way. Just make sure not to mix up what cap goes with what rod!

[twin-turbo]

no problem for mixing parts

just problem for to find good Bearing grade for replacement...

my engine was never opened before.

[jras312]

If the crank is not being cut down and you know for a fact it hasn't been touched, then just get standard bearings. Then some green plastigauge to double check clearances on install.

[reses]

I dont know if you still can get the select fit bearings, I noticed that when I opened my engine, found a great post explaining the marks and bearing color/value but now, almost everyone go with STD bearings (or the matching size for your cut crank)

Anyway here is the info:

Originally Posted by bluemax_1 View Post
. . . The markings on the crank correspond to the journal outer diameters and the block markings correspond to the main bearing block+cap inner bore diameters.

There are 4 possible crank colors in order - Yellow (0), None (I), White(II), Blue(III) with Yellow(0) having the thickest journals and Blue(III) having the thinnest (by fractions)

There are 3 possible block markings - I, II and III, with I having the smallest inner bore and III having the largest inner bore.

There are 5 bearing colors in order - Pink(I), Red(II), Green(III), Black(IV), Brown(V). Each bearing differs from the next by 0.0002". The proper clearance specs are between 0.0008"-.002". Pinks are the thinnest bearings and Browns are the thickest.


Since yours is a 2G (right?), you shouldn't have to worry about the 1G problem where there could be different sized main journals on the same crank. Supposedly, from 2G 4-bolt main onwards, the crank journals were the same range on the same crank (otherwise you have to find the individual roman numeral markings on the counterweights of the crank).

To find the correct bearing color, you need the crank number/color (or individual crank journal number) and the block number.

For instance, for my car.

No color (I) crank + block markings II, II, II, II
I know all the bearing colors will be the same and in this case, it's Green.

If the crank is a Yellow(0) crank with the same block markings of II all around, then the bearing color should be Red.

If for instance, you have a crappy crank and a crappy block, you could have a crank with counter weight markings like (I, II, I, III) and block markings like (II, I, I, II)

Then you would need
(I)crank + (II)block = Green
(II)crank + (I)block = Green
(I)crank + (I)block = Red
(III)crank + (II)block = Brown

BTW, if you have Mitsu CAPS, enter your VIN and then type 'bearing' in part name. Place the pointer over the part number (03040 if you're a '94) and hit F2 on your keyboard. It will pull up the diagrams that show the crank and bearings. On the top of the CAPS screen, you should see 2 big arrows. Click the right arrow once, and it shows the diagram that indicates where the block markings are. click the right arrow again and it'll take you to the bearings cross-reference page. You can then double-check what I've told you there and cross-reference what you need from your crank+block markings. If you still have trouble figuring it out, email me or call and speak to Dave at Norco Mitsubishi.

Now after looking at the diagrams, click the left arrow key to get back to the diagram that shows the crank + bearings. Place the cursor over the part number for the main bearings and left click to select. This then pops up the Mitsu part#-CAPS# cross-refernce chart. I can save you that step by simpling listing the bearing numbers.

Pink = MD197603
Red = MD197604
Green = MD197605
Black = MD197606
Brown = MD197607

If you do NOT know what you need, it seems clueless Mitsu employees believe MD197603 Pink(I) to be the 'default' and this is what they will send you. Since Pinks are the thinnest of the select fit bearings, you have a good chance of ending up with clearances that are too wide (over 0.002").

Max

Also the bearing caps, the 0 (more like B or 8 on my 1G rods) point to the flywheel.

[twin-turbo]

Hi i remove and examine the color on each rod bearing and main bearing, here is the results :

On the rod bearing : all 6 rod bearing is Brown

On the main bearing (crank) : Black - Red - Red - Red


Is it normal to have this color bearing with this block marks ?

II II II
II II II

III
III III III II


Thank's for the answers... )