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Thread: Misfire like fuel cut under throttle - Stumped!

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  1. #1
    Wrench Monkey Not Verified
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    Misfire like fuel cut under throttle - Stumped!

    Mod shortlist: 19T, 550cc, AFPR, Supra Pump, FlashECU/Chrome, Montero MAF

    It idles fine, but rich, like 11-12 AFR after closed loop. 15 AFR in the first 10-20 seconds of running.

    Accelerates normal at first when not boosting, then when boosting it breaks up bad. The more it's driven, the worse the problem seems to get, to the point where it breaks up with any kind of throttle, boost or not.

    Pressure tested, found a few major leaks, and fixing them had absolutely no effect on the problem.

    Checked the front 3 plugs, and they look good.

    Fuel pressure is normal. AFPR is functioning normal, but there is a miniscule amount of fuel getting to the vacuum part of it. MAF readings appear normal based on experience.

    While I had it idling for about 20 minutes, I watched the low fuel trims go from 2% to +10-12% and hold there. This was after fixing boost leaks.

    Today I found all 4 O2 sensors are reading 0v or close to it, and have no reaction to revving the engine. They only react to unplugging them, which makes them go from .03v to .01v.

    Is it possible I have 4 bad O2 sensors at once?? Or maybe I tuned with some failing O2's and didn't notice? Could these cause a fuel cut like misfire??

    Would driving in open-loop test that theory?
    1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
    1993 3000GT VR4 - Maroon/Blacktop - Back to stock/Restoration
    1994 Stealth R/T - Primer - Parts store

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    What plugs, and what gap?

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoopKill View Post
    What plugs, and what gap?
    I don't remember which plugs I put in there last, gap is .025".

    This problem started on it's own without me changing anything, so nothing is misrouted.

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    VR-3747 :D Not Verified
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    You sure you don't have some kind of hose routed incorrectly around the intake bubble? If you were boosting unmetered air and just flat didn't know it (aka it's not leaking "out"), it could definitely cause a fuel cut like symptom.
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

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    I've had similar issues and this weekend my crank sensor completely failed. I'm not sure if they are related but it's possible. My best theory on my car though has been that my Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark was failing/shorting somewhere. My problem has been very inconsistent though, sometimes it worked perfectly, other times it didn't.
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

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    It sounds very odd that all of your O2 sensors would stop working simultaneously. Sound like an electrical problem to me. What brand of Chrome ECU do you have?

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    VR-3747 :D Not Verified
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    Without physically changing anything, or you mean literally, no tuning changes or anything either? Like if you tried to engage NLTS or something maybe your clutch pedal sensor is bad for instance causing your car to freak out. I pulled that out of my butt, so that may not make sense, but I'm trying to look at all possibilities

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    I tried to disable closed loop by disabling bit 4 in peripheries, now it just cranks and doesn't start. Anyone know the input code to reenable it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    I tried to disable closed loop by disabling bit 4 in peripheries, now it just cranks and doesn't start. Anyone know the input code to reenable it?
    Can you have ecuflash do a compare against what's in the ecu to confirm the flash was succesful?

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

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    Jester ecu.

    Didn't change anything at all. This is the first time I hooked up the laptop since 2013. It ran fine, and then this issue just started in the middle of a drive.

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