Hmmm... I might add get a new throttle body with TPS and IAC/ISC to my list of stuff to do.
Hmmm... I might add get a new throttle body with TPS and IAC/ISC to my list of stuff to do.
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.
Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
Adjusted the TPS back to where it was and the part throttle problem went away. Must be a wiring problem somewhere in the engine bay that caused my original issue.
1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
1993 3000GT VR4 - Maroon/Blacktop - Back to stock/Restoration
1994 Stealth R/T - Primer - Parts store
I pulled my crank sensor today and the insulator where the wires connect to it was gone. IDK if it melted or what, but the wires were damn near touching each other, so I'm sure it's possible that they were shorting potentially before it stopped working entirely. Hopefully I'll have it together tomorrow so I can see if the problem comes back or not.
I put my car back together after the crank sensor and still no fuel. It's at the mechanic now for diagnosing. I'm starting to think I need to replace the entire wiring harness.
I can say with almost complete certainty that your problem was the knock sensor wiring...
I finally fixed mine yesterday. When I logged there was no knock sensor voltage. I pulled everything apart and tested the knock sensor wiring with a multi-meter and confirmed it was all good. Plugged it all back in and knock voltage was working again and the car runs as it should.
I had an issuse with 7-8-9 knock counts a while back, checked everything including connector for corrosion (everything ok) put it back together and never had a problem since either.
GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
TD04-16g`s, Maf-t. 13g`s 12.4@115mph / 16g`s 12.5@117mph.
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