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Thread: Turbo/Efficiency Discussion

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    Turbo/Efficiency Discussion

    Hey all,

    I have finally gotten myself out of the financial slump that graduating college left me... $100 to my name was tough to build from haha!

    I also got the mod bug again with the car, so that's not helping things either!

    I have a more-or-less complete build list in my "blog" (only entry) for those that are curious. The pertinent mods to this discussion:
    - 3.7L w/ DR street grind cams (272's I think?)
    - Stage III heads with TD05 manifolds
    - 2.5" hot side piping, 3.5" cold side piping
    - I will have a 3.5" throttlebody/manifold

    I want to build the ultimate street car. JRink had a 3.5L with 16g's and it made some awesome power and had great spool response. I want to build something similar, but there have got to be better turbos out there to pair up with my engine. I am currently hitting full boost around 5000 with a rev limit to 8... which for me is fine, but I don't want it to be any worse than that. There are definitely some deficiencies in my setup too, but I will address those when I get the engine out this summer.

    My questions are as follows:
    1. My current 20G turbos have a 2.25" inlet and 2" outlet. My piping is 2.5"... do you think that the slowing of the air velocity is hurting the car? It may be a moot point, but I am trying to build everything to work as one cohesive unit, so little details like that are important to me.

    2. What turbos should I look at maybe upgrading to? I will probably live in the low 20's boost unless I make the switch to e85, but even then, probably just high 20's boost. But truly, its about airflow (goes back to question 1), not boost pressure in my book. More air I can pump in, and the quicker I can get it out, the more power I make.


    So, really just looking for some opinions here. I don't know as much as I would like about all the different turbos out in the world, but in my "perfect" world in my head, I would have a 3" inlet, 2.5" outlet, and would hit full boost by 4000rpm's and let em' scream until 8000 rpm's.

    For the sake of argument, assume I have fuel, intercooler, and any other supporting mod you could need to hit whatever power the turbos can provide
    Last edited by futurevr4man; 03-03-2015 at 08:56 AM.
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

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    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

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    Those don't flow any more than what I have now?

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    And I'm not dropping anywhere NEAR $6500 for this crap

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    Quote Originally Posted by futurevr4man View Post
    Those don't flow any more than what I have now?
    900 wheel on 20Gs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by futurevr4man View Post
    And I'm not dropping anywhere NEAR $6500 for this crap
    you know I'm just messing with you and living my dreams vicariously,right?

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    Yes, I did figure that . And yeah, the 20G's I have are rated for ~45lbs/min... bout the same as the 2867's

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    Are your 20g's regular ole mhi units punched into td05 housings?


    Theres a plethora of housing upgrades (stock mhi td05 units for a regular 16 are a known cork, and have been proven to hold back setups on the dyno - ex: slowboy racings turbo threads on dsm tuners)

    Pair it with
    billet comp wheels,
    lightweight 9blade architecture replacement turbines
    anti friction treat the shaft/bearings/piston rings

    Annnnnnd you may see some new life within your units, both in efficiency/peak power and powerband. The names are old, but the architecture nowadays is miles ahead of what it used to be.

    That and not to mention cost of revamp for both of yours would be comparable to the price of a NEW one from somewhere more name brand. Thats just a thought if cost is still a concern.

    Otherwise google borg warners newest efr stuff unveiled at sema - they are now coming built in with quick spool valving in their linup.........plus titanium turbines, billet wheels, ballbearing chras.

    That would be a torquey riot in a parallel system.
    Last edited by arm0red1; 03-02-2015 at 01:02 PM.


    Hx52 billet 67mm comp wheel, 350Z headers, Custom 4" exhaust, STM avenger intake mod, Denso 1250's, twin walbro 400's, dual pump/dual feed braided lines from tank to rails,Tial 50mm BOV, Tial 60mm wg, Spec 4+ with hub welded and balanced, Rays Bellhousing brace, flash ECU with openport 2.0 tune, MSD coils with KB boost a spark, MSD race ignition wires, Odyssey PC680, CX racing fmic 1000hp core 28x12x4, ABS delete, EGR delete, AC delete, cruise delete, pansy patrol pulley reduction, Vac reduction

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    if you really want to get more out of the 20g, this is what I suggest. if you are running the evo3 comp cover, get rid of those and switch to a 3 inch inlet anti surge larger cover. also switch to a billet compressor and 9 blade turbine. then port everything. you will be in the 900+whp range on e85 or race fuel. if going to cost some money to do this but would will gain a fair share more flow over a cast 20g in a ev03 cover with a 12 blade turbine.

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    How much power are you currently making with setup on the car? How close are you to maxing it out? No point in chasing a new goal if you're not even making the current setup lose its breath IMO...

    On the same note, has there ever been a legitimate comparison w/td05 hotsides and 9 blade/ 12 blade turbines? Additionally, I've never seen any proof of billet wheels adding anything spectacular either except in the case of DR650/750 turbos. Everything else just seems like its hype.
    Last edited by NOMIEZVR4; 03-02-2015 at 06:26 PM.
    95 TD05 16G VR-4---540whp@24psi
    34XXlbs..

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