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Thread: 94 Pearl Yellow RT/TT Project

  1. #11
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    Love me some yellow stealths!

  2. #12
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    So dope!
    1991 Stealth RT/TT
    Mods- Greddy Type S and a spun bearing.

    [Yesterday 11:43 PM] R/T93 : Im reading hulk comics on Youtube
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  3. #13
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    I got the new radiator fans put in. I was originally only going to replace the factory passenger side fan with a Dorman 620-317 fan that I picked up for $76. Then I found a $40 fan (Tong Yang Group (TYG) part number ZZ63029A-04-12A) on Ebay listed for a mid to late 90's Galant that was listed as a replacement for the same Mitsubishi part number as the Dorman fan so I picked it up as well. For an extra $40 I figured why not have 2 new fans?

    The biggest differences between the stock driver side fan, Dorman fan and the TYG fan are as follows:
    * The stock fan motor (at least on my fan) doesn't stick out past the 4 shroud to motor braces but the motors on the Dorman and TYG do stick out past these 4 braces by about 1/4" or so.
    * The Dorman fan required slight modification of the connector standoffs in order for the connectors to securely fit onto the standoffs. This is nothing that 5 minutes with a utility knife can't handle.
    * The Dorman fan has all black wire sleeving while the TYG uses both gray and blue wire sleeves.
    * The TYG fan has an extra metal bracket on the top left mounting tab. This is attached using a screw and thus easily removed. In fact, the stock fan actually has a spot for this screw and metal bracket too.

    Factory driver's side fan:



    TYG driver's side fan:


    Dorman driver's side fan:


    I used the Dorman fan on the driver's side and the TYG on the passenger's side.

    I trimmed the left mounting tab of the Dorman fan to give more room between the mounting tab and the DNP hard pipes that run through this area. I did this with a utility knife; cutting small slivers off until I got the shape I wanted.


    Before trimming, the IC pipe would hit into the fan mount:


    For anyone who may not know, in order to mount a secondary slim "driver's side fan" on the passenger's side the fan needs to be turned upside down so that 3 out of the 4 mounting tabs will bolt to the fan. The 4th mounting tab (lower right) doesn't line up with a mount on the radiator and is actually located right in front of one of the radiator hose ports so it will be cut off anyway. Since the lower left mounting tab is now a hole I went ahead and cut mine and turned it into a slot so I can slide the fan down over the bolt during installation like normal.

    Lower right mounting tab cut off of the TYG fan to make room for the lower radiator hose port.


    Upper right of the TYG fan shroud trimmed to fit around the upper radiator hose port.


    And the final product yields tons of room on the passenger's side.


    The fan motor on the driver's side is close to the A/C hardline coming from the A/C compressor but clears.




    I used a multi-tool to cut straight sections and large chunks of plastic away (especially useful when cutting off the mounting tab), a spindle sander to clean up and contour the cuts made to remove the mounting tab and a utility knife to remove excess plastic flashing.


    I started to do a pressure test on the intercooler piping but quickly found out that 4mm vacuum hose is NOT the correct size to use for most of the hoses on top of the throttle body. I noticed 4mm is the smallest 3SX sells so I figured that was the right size and stopped researching. I ordered some 3mm hose and will replace these lines once again.

    I also started cutting out the unneeded brackets in the right and left bumper "holes". I'm hoping I won't need to do much alteration around the lower pipes coming out of the FMIC.
    1988 300ZX Turbo
    1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
    1999 Chevy Blazer
    2014 Hyundai Veloster Turbo

  4. #14
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    Looking good! Too bad you had to find out that 4mm is too big after the fact; I went through TurboSmart when I bought all of my 3mm vacuum hoses & Trans-Dapt for the rest.

    Summit Racing carries a lot of goodies like that for reasonable prices (for future reference).

    Keep up the good work!
    '90 Toyota Celica GT Liftback..........................(X) (daily driver)
    '73 Dodge Challenger 340...............................(X)
    '91 Firestorm Red Stealth R/T TT.....................(X)

  5. #15
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    I have not seen anyone have to switch fans for DN pipes before. Here is another member's car:


    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    I have not seen anyone have to switch fans for DN pipes before. Here is another member's car:

    With the stock radiator the DNP pipes fit fine but when i installed the new radiator it pushed everything back towards the engine and the stock passenger side fan would no longer fit. The fan hit the pipe coming from the right side of the Y-pipe and i couldnt really push that pipe back any further because it was already close to the pre-turbo pipe.

    I went with TurboSmart for my 3mm hose as well.
    Last edited by Omega-Tron; 03-10-2015 at 11:41 AM.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omega-Tron View Post
    With the stock radiator the DNP pipes fit fine but when i installed the new radiator it pushed everything back towards the engine and the stock passenger side fan would no longer fit. The fan hit the pipe coming from the right side of the Y-pipe and i couldnt really push that pipe back any further because it was already close to the pre-turbo pipe.
    hmm, its tight yeah, but I have the 2" radiator and have mocked everything up okay. Intercoolers are coming in thursday, so I will know for sure.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    hmm, its tight yeah, but I have the 2" radiator and have mocked everything up okay. Intercoolers are coming in thursday, so I will know for sure.
    For me it was close but not close enough. I needed at least another 3/8" of room for the fan shroud to physically fit and then it still would have likely rubbed on the pipe and I'm not sure if the fan motor, which sticks out even further, would have hit anything else.

  9. #19
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    This weekend I got the 4mm vacuum hoses swapped to 3mm; at least for the hoses I knew were too big.

    I also made a bracket that mounts the radiator support to the splitter. However, I don't like how far the bracket pushes the splitter down so I'm going to shorten it up a bit. My thought is to have the splitter fully supported from the car so that the bumper cover to splitter attachement isn't "structural". I want the splitter to be easy to take on and off to gain access to tow hooks, radiator drain plug, etc. The splitter will also have to be removed if I need to drive the car up onto a car trailer.





    Lastly, I trimmed the bumper cover to fit the pipes coming out of the FMIC.



    I placed the initial piece that I cut out back on the bumper to show a rough example of how much material was removed.


  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omega-Tron View Post
    For me it was close but not close enough. I needed at least another 3/8" of room for the fan shroud to physically fit and then it still would have likely rubbed on the pipe and I'm not sure if the fan motor, which sticks out even further, would have hit anything else.

    Interesting, fits easily for me, its not hitting your intake pipe and preventing the intercooler pipe from fully seating in the y-pipe, is it?

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