1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Yes true. In the vids i wasn't punching it. When I get into the throttle it is spooled around or shortly after 3k. And yes I'm only at 8psi as of right now it most certainly will take a little longer after fully tuned and at target boost. I will post up a log when I can, I noticed some drips of oil last night so I pulled the trans to check the rear main. Don't think I got it perfect let seated so I'm waiting for a new one to come in first.
Great for you man! When I clicked this thread I thought it would be all hype and no results like 90% of the threads. I was shocked when I saw a picture posted a month after your original post! Sounds awesome! Sounds like it is running fairly smoothly. Keep us updated as you get it tuned/boost turned up.
Haha thank you! I know every single thread iv seen is all hype. I just like being different that was my main reasoning to do it. And to test myself and my fabricating skills. This is defiantly the biggest fab project iv ever done. But yes tuning is going slow and steady as iv been busy the past few weeks. Virtual dyno has me at 400 ish to the ground. I'd like another 150 to 200 when all is said and done.
Update: haven't been able to do much tuning as we seem to get a huge snowstorm every week and roads are always slick. But when the time comes How far would you guys push a stock motor? Everywhere I read numbers are all over the place. I know tuning will make a huge difference and its not something you can put an exact number on but what are some numbers you've seen. I recently rebuilt my entire engine with all new oem parts after a spun bearing. Rods, crank, cams, pistons heads and so on. At the time I was on 15g's so I want worried about pushing it too hard. But currently my setup should be capable of a lot more. I know ray has hit mid 600 ' s on a 180k motor. But mine is brand spanking new. How far should I take it before thinking about another rebuild?

run 450 for a little while, check the oil filter for bearing material, get a blackstone analysis if you can afford it. Run 500 for a while, repeat. 550, etc.
wish I would've done that, lol. Oil filters are cheap!
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
sorry to bring this thread back to life but i have a quick question. hurts to ask as i usually like to figure things out on my own. but i pulled the engine and built it up last week to support for the power im wanting. nothing too radical. upon starting it up i had no spark and fuel. did all the routine tests (wont be my first time with this issue) and the crank sensor wasnt sending out a signal. replaced it as i must have damaged it while rebuilding and now i have spark but no fuel. pump is on and i have pressure in the rails but thats it. mfi is working as im getting voltage at the injectors and hear it clicking. checked ptu, re flashed my ecu just in case, cam sensor is getting power and boucing btwn 5v and 0v while cranking. crank sensor has voltage but no reading on the signal wire. its brand new? timing is lined up, little plate thingy that passes through it is lined up. andy ideas why its not sendig a signal? also if it were the crank sensor and that only woulnt i be having spark issues also? any advice would help as im anxious to get it on the streets again!
20150208_124923.jpgOn another note I got the bay re sprayed and a nice g4m paint scheme going on![]()
Last edited by 1995vr4; 02-13-2015 at 12:13 AM.
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