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Thread: Battery drain .....f#$%^&* !!!!

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  1. #1

    Battery drain .....f#$%^&* !!!!

    I have a 93 RT TT (formerly HellBringer's and WAYNECAR) and have had an issue that has had me scratching my head for sometime. The car seems to go dead after sitting a day or so. I have replaced the battery with a brand new one, that was tested / load tested from where I bought it and it will hold a charge outside the car for days on end. However, as soon as you install her...shes starts dropping in voltage metered at the posts via multimeter.

    At times, I will start with 12.81v and after a few hours it will drop down to 12.60v and continue to plummet. You can literally watch the multimeter dither between current voltage by 0.01v, until it drops a bit and continues to dither on southward (again by 0.01v at a time).

    Hopefully I wont jump back and forth too much to add to the confusion, but I am really stumped.

    Now I went to do a parasitic draw test on the car (which I think I did correctly) and didn't see any obvious signs of draw. I placed the multimeter in series with the negative ground cable and the negative battery post (meter dial set to 20/10A measuring under DC mA and connected the leads to the appropriate spots on the meter {COM / 10A } and saw a draw of 0.04. Is the 0.04 something to be concerned with?

    With a steady reading of 0.04, I began pulling each fuse and did not see a significant drop...it stayed for the most part at 0.04 but would dither to 0.03.

    With that portion complete, I though maybe the alternator was causing the drain since I read that it could feed back power from the battery. I took the meter out of series and just stated checking voltage again. Within that time I went down appox. 0.05 v which was probably half an hour or so. Again, the voltage would dither back and forth 0.01v at a time and continue south.

    I pulled both the harness clip and power wire to the alternator free and still see the meter dithering south, so I guess I could say the alternator is not my issue and is good (this too was tested at time of battery load testing).

    Needless to say, I will bet if I leave the car as is (everything hooked up as it should be) she will be deader than a door nail by this time tomorrow.

    The car does have an aftermarket stereo and amps, however I have it defeated by pulling the Stinger fuse off the firewall where its mounted.

    Can anyone offer some insight on where to turn to next?

  2. #2
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    start pulling relays. Did you pull any of the fuses under the hood or just inside.

  3. #3
    I pulled every fuse in the engine bay and by drivers foot rest. I was unable to get the relays in the engine bay to budge (without pulling top portion off....relay remain seated). Need to get a small pick screwdriver or hook to wrestle em out.

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    a trick is to just pull the cap of the relay off, then you can manually engage or disengage it.

  5. #5
    Hmmmm...need to do some studying up on that then...would hate to jump in feet first and catch something on fire....hahahahhaha

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    The "0.04" is not much to be concerned with assuming I'm understanding you correctly. I think ideal is .01 (10mA) and the upper limit is .03 for general cars, .04 should last like 3-4 weeks before it won't start a good battery.

    Do me a favor and open your door while the meter is connected, generally speaking the interior lamps are like 2 amps, so you would read 2.04 if that were the case.
    Last edited by sublime_whatigo; 10-21-2014 at 09:48 PM.

    92 3000GT VR4
    Matt

  7. #7
    Good evening.....

    I hooked the multimeter back up in series and still had the 0.04 reading. I went over to the passengers side door and popped it open. Reading on meter jumped to 0.42.

    dooropen.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by sublime_whatigo View Post
    The "0.04" is not much to be concerned with assuming I'm understanding you correctly. I think ideal is .01 (10mA) and the upper limit is .03 for general cars, .04 should last like 3-4 weeks before it won't start a good battery.

    Do me a favor and open your door while the meter is connected, generally speaking the interior lamps are like 2 amps, so you would read 2.04 if that were the case.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firestorm91tt View Post
    Good evening.....

    I hooked the multimeter back up in series and still had the 0.04 reading. I went over to the passengers side door and popped it open. Reading on meter jumped to 0.42.

    dooropen.jpg
    Something isn't right here. When you open the door you should have 5 - 5 watt bulbs turning on, 2.08 amps (@12 volts). Maybe you have led's installed, but I'm leaning toward your meter being the problem.

  9. #9
    You know I was wondering kinda the same from vids I watched on youtube. I have confirmed that the Stealth has the old school bulbs in there, actually swapped a couple out for new ones. Do I have my multi-meter hooked up right per the photo I left in one of my responses?

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    Speaking of doors, the sensors might be intermittent and shorting to ground causing the current draw. You could disconnect them for a few days as a test.

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