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Thread: NA Upgrade Bible

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    Administrator Feedback Score 3 (100%) Alan92RTTT's Avatar
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    NA Upgrade Bible

    Written by Yogurt! Written in 2002 Updated 2008

    PRE MODIFICATION PREPARATION: ALWAYS do the 60k/120K tune up before you do any modifications. I get people asking me what they should do first when upgrading, and the first thing I ALWAYS tell them is GET THE CAR RUNNING HEALTHY AND SAFE FIRST!!!!! The 60K/120K tune involves the Timing belt, the Tensioner for the timing belt, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, water pump, cam seals, and a few other various things. These items are CRITICAL to your cars life, and MUST be done in order to survive.

    INTAKE: This modification is good for about 1hp to the ground, BUT it helps with other mods. The most cost effective method is to get one off Ebay, Do not pay 180 bucks like many others do for the K&N FIPK. On Ebay, you can get them for about 40 dollars. It is the same thing, and none too critical to performance. Also, do not pay $200 for the nice shiny arm that some companies put out. Plenty of Ebay sellers have the SAME thing for under $50 shipped, a lot of times they come with a filter too.

    UNDER DRIVE PULLEY: This is good for about 8-10Hp at the crank. This has been discussed at length on a lot of different forums. You can listen to people who say its going to break your engine, or you can take a look at others who use them on every car they own. I have yet to hear about anyone spinning a bearing due to the harmonic vibrations. So I always recommend it. Prices range between $50 and $210 depending on your needs.

    TEST PIPE: This mod is good for about 7-8 hp. Further more, it will allow you to pull all the way to redline, instead of falling off the HP table at 6800. Best mod available for the N/A IMO.
    California emission spec cars have two pre-catalytic converters and can either gut, or try to fabricate a pre-cat delete for more HP to the ground.

    EXHAUST: With this Modification, your exhaust note changes noticeably, and your car will pull a bit harder to redline. This helps top end immensely. Borla makes a great system for the turbo version that will fit the non turbo. It sounds great on the Non Turbo 3S. A 3inch exhaust is not necessary for your non turbo, but makes a difference in sound. . The other way you can go for your exhaust modification is going custom. This is the most cost effective way to get a cat-back exhaust for your 3S and you have many options available to you like this one . A single tip exhaust is a great way to go, and will cost about half. Some like the 1 tip exhausts, and some don't. at this point it is a matter of personal preference. One tip for you custom exhaust makers, be sure to retain some type of resonator and or pre-mufflers, they are not a restriction and they are a HUGE help with N/A valve overlap (farting noise when letting off the throttle).

    HEADERS: For years, The DOHC NA cars have Longed for them. 3SX in conjunction with ek2mfg have produced them. They make about 18hp to the ground. DYNO PROVEN. If you previously had a down pipe, you can sell it at this point and get some of the initial cost of these headers back. Also consider the OBX headers on Ebay.. they work with some fabrication, and theyre much cheaper. these run $375-599

    At this point you are making about 245 hp. and your car will feel very strong. and SHOULD run about 14.9-7 depending on driver.

    GROUND WIRE KIT: At $45 they're a cheap mod, BUT these will help throttle response greatly. They stabilize voltage for your ECU. Maximal Performance sells these, as well as many different vendors on Ebay.

    DOWNPIPE : There are various vendors that have these in stock. Depending on which emission car you have, you will be able to choose wisely. This mod is good for a reported 13hp at the wheels and can not be used in conjunction with the 3SX full length headers.
    These cost around $300 bucks, and your exhaust note changes CONSIDERABLY at 4,000 rpm.this is where you'll get some nice gains from the air filter in stage 1.

    SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS: These keep the engine nailed to the car, and eliminates MOST of wheel hop, 3SX or MAXIMAL PERFORMANCE has them. you can also go the DSM route and window weld your stock mounts if you don't mind a 24 hr of downtime to let them dry. (This is the cheapest way to go, bout 14 bucks, but you will have to re-do them every 2 years or so)

    LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL: This will make your car nice and rev happy, and will add about 1mph on your mph at the track. There are many vendors that carry these, RPS and Fidanza have a few great solutions for the N/A 3s.

    CLUTCH : In recent years there have been significant gains in clutches for the N/A. To each his own. just a tip, you CAN use ANY DSM clutch you find on the market, they bolt to the N/A flywheel.
    JUST KEEP IN MIND. IF YOU'RE PLANNING ON GOING FWD Twin Turbo. GET A HEAVY DUTY ONE. They're worth it in the long run.

    TWIN TURBO FUEL PUMP: This bolts right in, and keeps your fuel pressure NICE. You can get them used for pretty cheap. You're Going to need this for the next modification.

    NITROUS OXIDE: Depending on your application and budget, you have a choice to make. Wet (2 separate jets, one for fuel, and one for Nitrous), or Dry (one jet, Nitrous). but now you will realize the safety aspect of the fuel pump. There are many options and companies that make a great kit. You can get a used Nitrous kit. It's cost effective.

    FUEL CONTROL SAFC (1, 2, neo): This will be used to tune the fuel for the nitrous kit. This is a nice gadget to have, as it will tell you a few vital readings on RPM, fuel correction, etc. The Blue wire mod will allow you to read 02 voltages. Get one from one of the great vendors available to 3S enthusiasts!

    GAUGES: At this point you should get a wide band 02 sensor, and EGT gauge to help in the tuning if you have nitrous.

    ACCEL COILS (IGNITION)
    : , Time to grab some 8MM Ignition wires and a set of yellow Accel coils. Stealth 316 Home has a tutorial on how to make them work. Hotter spark, more efficiency. The engine is an air pump and the spark is the engine that drives it. makes sense to get that spark as good as it can be, doesn't it?

    Now you should be making about 265 N/A hp and 320hp or more with the help of nitrous oxide.
    At this point you run between 14.5 and 14.1 depending on driver.

    MORE MODIFICATIONS THAT WILL IMPROVE HANDLING AND GENERAL RESPONSE!

    SPRINGS: You want to lower the cars center of gravity for better launches and control in corners. The best available option is Intrax. plain and simple. There are other cheaper alternatives out there, however quality is a concern. Eibach are great quality they just don't lower the car as much. Ground control coil overs are a great controllable option.

    CAMS: Good HP for big $$ Dynamic has them.

    INTAKE PLENUM: ultimateperformanceacc.com 'nuf said

    ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS: These are pretty expensive and you only have two solutions for them. They look nice but are tough to install if you get these, a good time to install them, would be when doing a 60/120K tune up. This Mod will pay off more if you have performance camshafts in your 3S. They're definitely not for the average tuner.

    LIMITED SLIP INSERT, or GEAR LSD: The best option is the LSD insert, its cheap, relatively easy to install, and if 11 second FWD DSM's can use it, so can you.
    Quaife or KTP gear type LSD's are always best, as they're torque biased, but at about $1000 they can get pricey with install. SUB 2.0 short times can be expected with much practice.

    PHENOLIC SPACER: minimal gains with this, but it keeps things cool up top, 3sx and dynamic have them.

    VR-4 BRAKES: You're going fast, so you need to stop quick too, you need the brake calipers and rotors from a first generation (1991-1993) 3S, along with the hub and steering knuckle. Axles remain the same. First Gen Twin Turbo calipers can be used on 16 inch stock rims. If you use 2nd Gen Twin Turbo calipers, you must upgrade to 17" rims.

    At this point you're making some pretty good power and you have the ability to put it to the ground. ALSO you have the means to make the car stop on a dime.
    at this point you should run 14.3-13.xx

    AND THE ULTIMATE NA MODIFICATIONS

    3.5L PAJERO ENGINE SWAP: this is a new modification so to speak, getting a JSPEC drop in 3500 motor will add about 30whp to your car for 1500 dollars. ebay has them all day long. HIGHLY reccomend this modification, this coupled with all the other stages will equal a VERY strong NA

    TWIN TURBO CONVERSION: From, a roll NOTHING will touch you. Track times will vary, 3SX has the world record for FWD TURBO which is sub 10 seconds.
    The LSD AND CLUTCH are A MUST for this undertaking. should cost between 2k and 8k depending on what you get, what method you use, who does it, and how many NEW parts you buy. Step by step Instructions can be found in the Twin Turbo conversion bible.

    REWIRE FUEL PUMP: With a bigger Twin Turbo fuel pump and nitrous, its a good idea to have constant voltage to the pump at all times. You may have to make this yourself, or check Ebay. I will provide instructions soon. Stay tuned.

    OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MODIFICATIONS.

    UPGRADED ECU CAPS: Most 1Gs are running on 13 years old now, its about time to get rid of the old leak prone electrolytic capacitors and replace them.
    BLUE WIRE MOD Remove your stock stereo plate, and pull the stereo, 4 phillips screws. Locate the blue wire, behind the stereo, pull the blue wire behind the stereo, no more beep when the door is open!

    UPDATED LIFTERS: GET THESE! your car will NEVER tick again.
    Last edited by Alan92RTTT; 08-22-2014 at 11:38 PM.

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