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Thread: Anatomy of bad ECS.

  1. #11
    I don't bite
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    If I remove the whole ecs and wiring, what happens to my shock settings...if "medium" I'd be ecstatic.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrGonzo View Post
    For normal driving I leave mine set to medium mode. Soft is just too bouncy for me on Intrax springs. Hard for when I'm doing high speed cornering and drag racing.

    I really need to get my selector know and LED's working again on my Techworks controller. I think I messed up the wiring when I got the stereo installed in the trunk. I'm using the stock ecs switch in the meantime till I can figure out my wiring foobar...
    Does the techworks actually do the additional functionality of the ecs with speed/tps/g/steering etc and do active changes?

    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    If I remove the whole ecs and wiring, what happens to my shock settings...if "medium" I'd be ecstatic.
    You pull the ecs after you've selected what you want mode you want to be left in. With a stock setup, only tour or sport.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toni View Post
    Does the techworks actually do the additional functionality of the ecs with speed/tps/g/steering etc and do active changes?
    No. it only allows you to set the mode soft/medium/hard and has a full built in test mode that tests each strut individually.

    I believe that the stock one only uses the G , Steering and TPS sensor to make adjustments. G sensor is a single axis that will adjust the strut based on take-off to stop squatting and hard braking to stop nose dive. Steering combined with TPS is used for roll control. I know it was discussed that using a single dual axis G-sensor would be much easier then using the signals from three different sensors. The stock adjustments are only done in Tour mode, Sport mode locks the struts into Hard mode and does no adjustments. I would rather have the ability to just set a specific mode then rely on the system setting various modes based on inputs as their will be a delay on setting the different modes as you drive. it also adds in multiple points of failure for the system itself along with the known issues of it interfering with ECU signals.

    Check it out on Youtube!!


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    Does the techworks have a dual axis g sensor? Or was that just discussion?

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    Just a discussion.

  6. #16
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    It's probably a multi axis G sensor, because it also sends heave information to the ECS computer. The ECS computer also uses speed information.

    The factors for switching modes is outlined in the TIM.

  7. #17
    I'm Marcus
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    Gonzo's correct - techworks is a pure manual controller - no sensor inputs . The only inputs it does take are feeds from the signal switches inside the struts and the ECS switch (Oem or rotary add-on.)

    p.s

    Also Gonzo - as long as your on the thread- I have a new firmware update for your controller ( & anybody else who has a unit). I'll PM you the details but basically it's better diagnostics.

    Favorite Car - A 1998 RED VR4 , pretty much stock except: Suspension: '94 ECS Struts Retrofit w/ Tein H-Techs controlled by TechWorks ECS Suspension Controller

    www.renegadetechworks.com Open Source 3000gt ECS Retrofit & Replacement Controllers

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    Cool, I'm still needing to sit down and figure out what I did to my rotary switch. I'll have more motivation to get it fixed once my ECU has been repaired and the car is running again.

    Quote Originally Posted by duke3k View Post
    Gonzo's correct - techworks is a pure manual controller - no sensor inputs . The only inputs it does take are feeds from the signal switches inside the struts and the ECS switch (Oem or rotary add-on.)

    p.s

    Also Gonzo - as long as your on the thread- I have a new firmware update for your controller ( & anybody else who has a unit). I'll PM you the details but basically it's better diagnostics.

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